Kashyapmar or Kashmir the land sanctified by Sage Kashyap (who is
known to have drained the waters and made the place liveable), would have you wondering if you indeed have wandered into paradise!
This being my second visit
to Kashmir, I could not help going
down memory lane and regaling my husband and son with my childhood experiences here.
Is Kashmir Safe? I'm often
asked. We ought to salute the Indian Army along with its numerous
jawans who keep Kashmir safe. Squads of Indian Jawaans guarding the borders
under challenging climes certainly deserve to be kept in our daily prayers.
This plaque gracing the
entrance of the famed Pari Mahal Gardens is a reminder of the harsh conditions
faced by our soldiers. May they live long! May their tribe increase!
Day-1Mission Kashmir
As we sheared our way
through the clouds for a landing, the Great Himalayan Ranges began emerging from
the veil of fog that had enveloped the earth.
There
is always something enigmatic and esoteric about mountains, especially the
Himalayas.
The temperature was a mere 21 degrees in Mid-May and a layer of grey clouds had loomed large over Srinagar. Our joy knew no bounds, for we'd be away from the
menacing heat of Mumbai. When the driver arranged by our host accorded us a
warm welcome, we instantly knew that our stay would indeed be hassle-free.
Our
mission began with a trip to the Dal Lake.
With
tall Poplars swaying gracefully in the cool mountain zephyr and with the
gigantic Zabarwan Hills at the backdrop, Dal Lake was a stunner!
Colourful
Shikaaras with frilled and laced drapes done in vibrant colors lend a quaint
charm, which is impossible to ignore.
At
once, the image from Bemisal’s prominent song, Ye Kashmir Hai flashed before my
eyes, invoking the famous song, “Kitni Khoobsurat Ye Tasveer Hai, Mausam
Bemisal Benazir Hai, Ye Kashmir Hai!”
Being
rowed in a ‘Shikaara’ is the best way to enjoy the Dal. For a more peaceful
ride, choose early evening, when the lake is sparsely inhabited.
Note:
The Dal Lake is famous for its floating markets (vegetables, fruits and
handicrafts being sold in shikaaras).
However,
beware of hawkers because they usually quote an exorbitant rate for their
wares. Lal Chowk is a better shopping destination. Moreover, if you entertain
one hawker, others would make a beeline and it’s extremely annoying when you’d
rather be enjoying the solitude.
We halted in the middle of
the lake for Kashmiri Kahwa and hot pakoras. Kashmiri Kahwa-a popular
concoction is a delicious brew garnished with slivers of dry-fruits.
It was here that Shammi Kapoor’s ashes were strewn after his death, as a tribute to his famous films-‘Kashmir Ki Kali’ and ‘Junglee’, which immortalized the Dal!
The Serene Dal
Enchanting Dal
View from the Boulevard
This
being my second visit, I was determined to trace the hotel in which we resided
on my first visit some 30 years back! Certain that my efforts would be
thwarted, I told the boat-keeper to scout for ‘Hotel Leeward’ at the banks of
the Dal and surprisingly he complied. With guidance from other boat-keepers, we finally managed to sail to the
long lost place!!
What a
nostalgic moment it was when I caught sight of the place where we as children had
spent a week with our parents!
Although Hotel
Leeward has lost the charm it once possessed, it now being occupied by CRPF
Jawans, I was surely excited as I recalled the lawn on which we had our morning
tea, and the dining hall that hosted a few college girls, who by now would
be expecting their own grandchildren!
We perched atop a nearby
hill for yet another captivating view of the Dal Lake!
A drive along an undulated road took us to Shankaracharya Hill on Hari Parbat. The drive en route the hill makes for a pleasant sight, with wildflowers (which we’ve seen only in books), dotting the landscape.
A tree laden
with white blossoms..or are they snowflakes on the tree?
Keekar Flowers
which abound in the valley are certainly a sight to behold, but equally
dangerous too; smelling these would result in you catching the cold it seems!
The
sweet fragrance that permeates the air is so refreshing that you’d have to
restrain yourself from going anywhere closer, lest you catch a cold!
The
Prettiest of the Lot-Horsechestnut!
The Prettiest of the Lot-Horsechestnut!
A
flight of about 100 steps takes you to the famed temple, built by the revered
Hindu pontiff Shankaracharya, who is known to have peregrinated from South
India to Kashmir, many moons ago.
A
simple and austere temple with a gigantic Shiva Linga, this consecrated shrine
made of brick and mortar has a vantage point that offers panoramic views of Dal
Lake and Srinagar . Unfortunately, cameras and even cell phones are
not permitted.
A
spectacular Sunset by the Dal
While
descending from the hill, we stole a few moments for the best shot at the
numerous vantage points that offer a seamless vista of the valley.
A View-Point -with the road leading to Shankaracharya Temple on one side and the
enchanting Dal on the other.
The Sun
sets at the Dal-View from the Boulevard
Interestingly
even in Kashmir, days are longer in summer with the sun lingering well past 7.30
p.m.
Our
stay was at Hospitality Home near Nigin Lake. The owner Mr.Riyaz Baktoo who has
transformed a part of his bungalow into this holiday home accorded us a warm
welcome. Spacious and neat rooms with modern amenities, home cooked food and
warm hospitality make Hospitality Home a definitely viable option.
Post
supper, we snuggled cozily, recounting the day’s reverie and looking forward to
soaking in this fairyland, which seemed more and more surreal!
Day2
We
began our day with a visit to Shaarika Devi Temple. Perched on Hari Parbat
Hill, this temple enshrines the Mother Goddess Shaarika Devi.
Hari Parbat on which stand the temples and a fort
BADAM WARI
Our next halt was at Badam Waari or 'Garden of Almond Trees'. A recent recreated addition to Kashmir’s renowned gardens, Badam Waari is a must-visit and if you ask me to rate it, I’d say it’s one of the most gorgeous gardens around!
The plaque above says it all. But, you need to see it to believe.
A
carpet of green, stippled with Almond Trees and sprinkled with blossoms in myriad
hues and with the Zabarwan Hills at the backdrop- Badam Wari is indeed a delight!
A
glimpse at these and all that your heart would say is, “Ten Thousand I saw
at a glance..."
Buzzing
bees, flitting butterflies, chirping birds and the echoing laughter of little
kids fill the silence... and your heart with mirth is bound to join in the jollity.
A Beautiful Bouquet Bestowed By the Almighty
Pink
and Purple
Climber
Roses Climbing their way to Glory
A Lone Tree Graces
the Spot
Pansies also known as Monkey Flowers
Wildroses Amid the Flaming Yellow
Creamy Chrysanthemums
A Rose Is A Rose Is A Rose
Snow-White Flakes
Most gardens have a roofed viewpoint in the centre, which offers a
seamless shufti.
Housed
within this observatory, is a well with a sitting area where visitors can take
a breather and behold the breathtaking backdrop!
The
inner circular rim encloses a well. The well of course was an eye-sore with
plastic bottles and packets strewn all about the meshed lid.
Thankfully,
the place was deserted and we could admire the carvings on the panel and
pillars.
Awesome Asters
A plinth housing a sacred bastion
Hari Parbat from Badam Weir
Balloons Amid the Blooming Dale
A log
house with slanting roof and wooden fence stands amid a lush green lawn,
surrounded by swaying Poplars and Willows.
The
humble cricket bat is made from the wood of Willows. While the Poplar proudly gathers
its branches and looks skyward, the Willow with its slender branches droops earthward, like a bashful bride!
Many hands go in making this a better place. You’d find gardeners
quietly mowing and tending to saplings.
Date Palm
After
taking in the beauty of Badamweir, we finally bade adieu to this awesome place
albeit reluctantly.
Hari Parbat-Taking a Peek At The Scene Below
The Dal and snow-clad Gulmarg beyond
SHALIMAR BAGH
Largest of the Mughal Gardens, Shalimar Gardens was built by
Jehangir for his wife Noor Jehan.
With a green carpet of sward sprawling over 31 acres, awash with
rare blooms and towering Chinar (Maple) Trees, Shalimar Gardens has stood
witness to scores of Bollywood scores, including the latest ‘Saat Khoon Maaf’!
Catch a glimpse of this delightful delight on the scenes of ‘Tere Bina Zindagi Se Koi' and
'Mere Yaar Shabba Khair' which showcase Shalimar Bhag.
The cool spray of water squirting from fountains sprouting on the
lawns, and the soft caress of mountain breeze carrying the fragrance of Attar
roses, are constant convoys as you saunter along the turf.
Chinar Tree
Carvings on a Pillar
There
are a number of Chinar Trees, under whose shade you can spread your picnic
basket. The soft whispers of children and the chirping of birds call for a perfect
setting to catch up with family. The serenity of the place coupled with the
beauty around will surely make you veer your mind from the mundane to the
exciting.
JAMAL CARPETS
Carpets
among other things feature in the expertise of Kashmiri craftsmen. A visit to
any carpet factory cannot and should not be missed. Ask to be shown an
authentic shop or factory where you can watch carpets being woven.
From
nature’s grassy gardens, we stepped onto soft, velvety rugs woven by creative
and dextrous hands of humble artisans.
Having been to many other carpet shops in Jaipur, Udaipur and
Sikkim, I was able to discern the difference in design and motif of each. Here
was a spread of Mughal motifs.
On
smooth floors were laid scores of carpets in different sizes, and in corners
were more carpets rolled and stacked. While each was being rolled out, the
exquisiteness, intricacy and uniqueness unraveled and vied for our attention, as
we gasped in awe! Each carpet bespoke themes reflecting nature and its
loveliness. It was indeed a magical moment!
Carpets
doubled up as window drapes, for there was no room for more carpets!
Some
take more than a month and some even 6 months to weave it seems. Most are
fire-resistant! The owner struck a match and hurled the flaming stick onto a
carpet, as we stood amazed watching the dying embers, while the carpet remained
unscathed!
A
Carpet Weaver at Work
The
best if yet to come, assured our driver Fayaz Bhai, for Nishat Bhag the best,
prettiest and the most romantic was yet to be explored!
NISHAT BHAG
Situated
on the right bank of the Dal, Nishat Bhag or’Garden of Gladness’ is veritably a
honeymooner’s haven!
Dotted with dainty blossoms in resplendent hues, punctuated with
Willows, Cypresses and Chinars, the beauty of Nishat Bhag is further accentuated
by cascading water-falls and fountains springing a cool delightful spray!
These flowers are commonplace by now you’d feel and of course
these can be found in any garden spread out in the topography of Kashmir. But
what sets Nishat Bhag apart?
The 12
terraces with cascading waterfalls represent the 12 signs of the zodiac! This
is not found in any of the other Mughal Gardens.
Built
by Noor Jehan’s brother Asif Khan it was considered to be ‘Firdous’ (paradise)
on earth!
Choose
a strategic point and drink in the beauty of cascading waters that copiously
rush down the topmost terrace only to merge with the Dal!
Stroll
along the lawns and pause for a moment! It was on this very place that Joy
Mujherjee swinging his Guitar had swayed to the beats of ‘Lakhon hai Nigah Mai’
Perhaps it is the enchanting milieu that boosted the Bollywood
bandwagon to bounce merrily, to compose teasing numbers and the heroines to
sway blithely to their hero’s serenading!
PARI MAHAL (GARDEN OF FAIRIES)
Pari Mahal Offering a Panoramic Peek at the Dal Lake Below
The topiary also adds a unique touch which no other Mughal garden boasts of.
Pari Mahal or 'Garden of Fairies' is one mesmerizing marvel never to be missed! Although smaller in size, I’d say prettier, as though a magical and esoteric veil has cloaked the place.
The highlight here is a spring that gushes forth three
terraces. The spring and the pool around which the garden is laid, owe
their discovery to a Hindu Saint, Saint Roopa Bhawani.
Pari Mahal or 'Garden of Fairies' is one mesmerizing marvel never to be missed! Although smaller in size, I’d say prettier, as though a magical and esoteric veil has cloaked the place.
Built by Dara Shikoh, this was created as a retreat for Sufi
scholars. Little wonder that this wondrous place is so wonder-filled!
While
the other Mughal Gardens have open terraces, Pari Mahal’s architectural
uniqueness highlights the stoned stairways that lead you to gardens planned in
different strata. This layout not only offers a glimpse of the pastoral
precincts in one fell swoop, but also allows you to behold the beauty of the
Dal Lake below!
With
seemingly secret stoned stairways leading to...nothing but gardens at different
levels, a veil of enigma certainly shrouds the place.
However,
given the way the locals pronounce, ‘Pari Mahal’ is hurriedly enunciated as
‘Parimal’! Nevertheless, the allusion is apt, for the fragrance of wildflowers
suffuses and lingers, as though fairies have waved their wand, sprinkling the
place with a heady scent!
CHASHMASHAHI GARDENS (GARDEN OF ROYAL SPRINGS)
Close to Pari Mahal is the Chashmashahi Gardens created by Ali Mardan Khan who was Shah Jehan’s governor.
The gurgling sound is audible as soon as you enter the precincts
and casts a certain inexplicable joy.
You’d find people filling up cans with the spring-water known for
its medicinal properties. Cupping my hands, as I supped the cold water, I felt
instantly refreshed!
This garden I felt, provided more space to amble around. At the
backdrop are the Zabarwan Hills overlooking this emerald green carpet speckled
with 'corals', 'rubies' and 'pearls'!
It’s
not uncommon to find a nubile bride standing under the flowering tree shaking
the branches of this tree, laden with white blossoms, waiting to get captured by
her ardent young lover on the lens!
ZESTHA DEVI MANDIR
Situated
atop a hill with a flight of steps leading to the shrine, the temple of Mother Goddess sits amid lush greenery with only the nippy breeze for
company.
The
Main Sanctum Stands Amid a Pool
It was
a windy evening and an unfathomable contentment filled the space as the
gleaming festoons embellishing the sanctum, swayed to the tune of the breeze!
In
absolute silence, we could hear the tinkling of tiny bells, the soft rustle of
festoons and the swaying of leaves. A few devotees staying in the temple lodge
made a quiet appearance and spoke in humble whispers, without disrupting the austerity of the
place. All of a sudden, the temple bells began to peal , signaling the commencement of evening ‘arti’ and chants and familiar hymns rent the air.
We
spoke to the friendly temple trustees who enlightened us about the history of
the temple.
Another
flight of steps leads to the lodge where pilgrims are lodged. Private
kitchens are provided and devotees can avail of the common kitchen service too.
Temple Lodge for Pilgrims
Sated for the day,
we returned to our ‘home stay’. At the end of the day, it’s hard to discern
which one of these gardens is the prettiest. At night as I closed my eyes, I
couldn’t but escape the slide-show that began to unravel. Delving deep into this
dream-world, I recaptured the sights and sounds and scents of these pleasure
gardens till I wandered to the place of nod..
Srinagar
has a number of gorgeous gardens no doubt, but for peace and solitude, don't
miss the gardens of Verinag and Sonamarg. Avoid weekends as far as possible
especially in Srinagar. Not only does it get crowded, but the local men
thronging the gardens of Srinagar openly ogle at women. This is a
disappointment and perhaps would be a deterrent to tourism in Kashmir, but
certain harsh facts do need to be addressed.
Day 3
AVANTIPURA
RUINS
Our
journey to Kokernag and Verinag began with a drive to the famed Avantipura
Ruins, just 29 kms from Srinagar. The ruins which were excavated in the early 20th century cannot be missed and is
a visual treat indeed.
Avantiswamy
Temple in Avantipura built by King Avantiverman in the 9th century lay buried in the wings
of time till archaeologists excavated the site and unearthed hidden treasures!
Our
guide- a Sikh posted here undertook the responsibility of showing us around and
explaining the history of the place.
His narration at first seemed just out of the plaque,
but what’s not mentioned on the plaque is that the popular song ‘Tere Bina
Zindagi Se koi’ of ‘Aandhi’ fame starring Sanjeev Kumar and Suchitra Sen was
shot here!!
Carvings on the Pillars
The striking spectacle of scattered stones
I stood
transfixed as I let my mind wander to another period to savour the spirit of a
bygone era.
Our Guide
Day 4
A decent houseboat with amenities will cost you more but it’s worth it.
Please do not compromise even if you have to shell a few bucks more. Houseboats
are graded with ‘A’ as the 'costliest and best' and ‘D’ as being down the rung.
Opt for the best and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed.
Day 5
By sundown, we crept back into our electric blankets and it was only a roaring appetite that made us crawl out looking for supper.
Silence was a breather we inherently resorted to, to capture and
treasure the breathtaking view below. The scene unfurled as we glided over
sheets of snow and trees & gaped in awe. There were just two more people with
the three of us . 
Day-7
Yet, as
we entered the sprawling pasture, a faction of horsemen descended on us like a
pack of wolves! It’s not possible to explore the place entirely on foot, but
it’s still fine to do some places on your own.
Traversing
steep gradients and deep
chasms, we halted on the shores of the raging Doodganga River.
A Blooming Dale
Sonamarg
or ‘Meadow of Gold’ is perhaps called thus, for, the goldmine of treasures it
holds.
Skiing Base
Couldn’t pass by without capturing this lad and his innovative
4-wheeler
The Garden-Abloom with Colours Sprinkled from His Brilliant Palette!
Just a kilometre away from
Pahalgam, abutting the Kalahoi River and the right bank of Lidder, is an ancient temple, its ancientness dating back to 400 AD.
The only sound that could
be heard was an unsung birdsong of an unseen bird. We remained rooted to the
spot loath to leaving the place, but we had dates to keep...we had a flight scheduled for Jammu.
The Durbar Hall houses a
collection of paintings by famous artists like MF.Husain, Laxmi Pai and
J.Swaminath. The Nala Damyanti series is a constant. Sepia-tinted photographs
of renowned dignitaries and those of Hari Singh’s lineage adorn the walls.
So, carry costumes to match the season. But heavy woollens will be needed in most places.
A fortnight may seem
‘too much’ for some. But with a penchant for gallivanting, we’ve
always enjoyed soaking in the essence of a locale. To truly experience the
culture and scenic diversity, one needs to spend quality time in the
place. Ironically, there’re still some places we weren’t able to cover!
River
Jhelum with floating boats-bang opposite the temple
En
route to Kokernag, we halted at a temple, whose flowing waters are known for
their medicinal properties.
The
weather in Kashmir is akin to English weather it’s said and in no time dark
clouds loomed large and a mild drizzle began to trickle and the village scene
along with apple orchards looked so incredibly pretty.
Apple Orchard
Can we
pass by forbidden fruits without at least looking out for one? But it seems the
Apple Season starts from September. Our driver averred, “Come back in September
Madam. When the trees are laden with pinkish red apples; they look so pretty
and the green fields dotted with pink, look so eye-captivating, that I bet, you
will extend your stay here!”
Believe
me, that piece of information has got us mulling over.
Apple Blossoms
Apple Blossoms (flower of an Apple)
What lies at the bent, we know not!
VERINAG
GARDENS
It would be an
unpardonable sin if you miss Verinag Gardens!!
A veil of mist hung over the place..
The world at our feet
The
highlight here is a natural spring which is the source of the River Jhelum.
With
wet winding pathways and green leaves glistening with raindrops Verinag seemed
to be the most romantic place on earth!
I’m
sure, such was the scenario when Jehangir had first set his sight here, for so
enamoured was he with this place, that he built this garden here!
This vacant garden bench seemed to beckon us with a ‘come hither’ look!
Pine Tree- Laden with 'pine-cones'- Iconic of Alpine Counties
Like
sea-shells on shores, pine-cones on hilly expanse make for quaint collectibles..
The fragrance of pine-cones is so invigorating that whenever you inhale the
scent, a certain ecstasy is sure to course through your veins.
A
Chinar Tree lending Grace
The
octagonal pergola under which gushes the spring is iconic of Verinag Gardens.
Believe
me if you miss Verinag, you haven’t seen Kashmir in its entirety!
Choose
a weekday to avoid the crowd and if you’re lucky, you too like us would get to
experience a slight drizzle, for, the allure of a misty day on a wet garden is
matchless!
KOKERNAG
Verinag and Kokernag go hand in hand, given their
proximity and of course their rhyming scheme!
The
drive to Kokernag along winding paths and vales and verdant fields and
gushing silvery streams is indeed a memorable one.
The
sight of simple village belles shepherding their flock is not uncommon and
their chiselled features would make you wonder if they even knew how pretty
they look!
JKTDC’S
HOTEL ALPINE
It was
in the evening that we reached Kokernag and shifted to JKTDC’s 'Hotel Alpine'.
Dearth of good hotels in this belt makes JKTDC’s accommodation the most sought
after and I must say you’d never be disappointed, for you'd give it a ‘thumbs
up’ for its strategic location.
Located
at the foothills with raging rapids at its feet, 'Hotel Alpine' nestled amid
luxuriant vegetation awash with rare blooms seems the most idyllic!
The
bridge that allows a cross-over to the hills yonder
The gurgling cataract shatters the silence even in the dead of the
night!
A quite
eeriness did pervade this forested place, but our hotel bellboys reading our
mind, exclaimed, “You and your family are safe here; although this is a
forest, you needn’t worry. No beast would dare stray here!” His assured
assertion did allay our fears.
Needless
to say, cocooned in warm blankets, we slid into a deep slumber, with only
silence for company. At a distance, we could still hear the babbling brook…
Day 4
It had
rained all night. The scent of wet earth mingled with the moisture laden
greenness of grass to lend crispness to the already frosty morning air.
The
chirruping of rare, tiny birds which fluttered on the grassy meadows completed
the picture! We were in the enchanting woods!
We had
Daksum in our itinerary for the day and my parents had already vouched for its
extraordinariness.
DRIVE
TO DAKSUM
The drive to Daksum was so wondrous that we wondered if we’d reach Dakshum on time.
But, the words, ‘The woods are dark and deep, but we have promises to keep’
made us inch further.
DAKSUM
The Himalayas in their dazzling glory stood poised even as the tall pines rose elegantly to touch the silver clouds; and the torrential river below meandered charting its own course, totally unmindful of its spectators!
Whatever
‘Daksum’ means, I know not, but to us, it meant 'Seventh Heaven'! Daksum is
Nature at her brilliant best!
The Himalayas in their dazzling glory stood poised even as the tall pines rose elegantly to touch the silver clouds; and the torrential river below meandered charting its own course, totally unmindful of its spectators!
Daksum
a quiet hamlet allows you to soak in the essence of Kashmir village life. 
A picturesque village, the scene seemed to emerge straight out of
an old Hindi movie where the soaring Deodars and Fir vied with snow-clad peaks
and when after a brief pause, there appeared flashes of Pine, Cedar and snow
and a gushing cascade dancing to the tune of flute and mountainous music.
The
picture was perfect with a few village belles balancing firewood on their crown
and a pot on their waist, nimbly strode on a log of wood oblivious of the
babbling brook below!
PICTURE
PERFECT DAKSUM
Cut off
from townsfolk, Daksum's small populace leads a quiet and contented life.
Even today, you’d find woodcutters, shepherds and farmers going about their
daily chores. There’s perhaps one small restaurant selling tea and baked cakes.
Daksum is also nature at its innocent best, unspoilt, virginal and blissful.
We did
nothing but stroll around, make small talk with villagers and pick fallen
pine-cones.
A few
houses lay scattered uphill and we befriended the inmates who were a warm and
friendly lot.
ACHABAL
GARDENS
Laid
out at a site known as Akshavalya, that was previously sacred to Hindus, this
current picture owes its existence to Noor Jehan. The spring Achapal Nag that
spills forth throughout the year finds a mention in the ancient Hindu scripture
'Nilmat Purana 'and the place is known to have been ruled by a Hindu King
Achshan.
Located
at the foothills, this green carpet stretches forth clutching multi-coloured
flowers and spurting fountains, mighty Chinars and delicate lanterns.
This
green velour with tiny flowers strewn about is an ocular treat, the mingling
fragrance of which a titillating pleasure for the olfactory senses and a
birdsong completing nature’s sonata, heralds a message that all’s well with the
world!
View-points
located ‘as the crow flies’ give an unhindered view of the precincts and are
also stopovers to take ‘that perfect shot’. The ‘Pinjrakari’ or lattice work on
wooden barricade adds to the loveliness, denoting an eye for beauty and detail
that artisans of yore possessed.
Achabal Springs
The Hills-Spellbound at the Sight below
The
sights, sounds and scent and the shady Chinar all certainly play on the senses
and Achabal Gardens provide the much needed privacy for canoodling couples too,
which is a rarity in Srinagar.
It was on one of these patches that we had a scrumptious
meal that day before marching forward. Achabal is about 8kms from Anantnag and
makes for a heavenly retreat.
HOW’S
BOAT?
Can a
Kashmir trip be complete without a stay in a houseboat??
These floating fairies with floral drapes that peer
through glass panes, and their delicate wooden carvings have never failed to
entice tourists.
A quality houseboat grabs your attention from near and
far, for its ample size matches its ample space too.
Intricate wooden carvings with elegant Kashmiri floral drapes,
an ornamental chandelier, wall to wall carpeting,
plush bedding and futons,
Cosy Interiors
and exquisitely upholstered suites, clean baths with a tub, a
spacious kitchen with a variety of victuals and a spacious dining hall are
hallmarks and we were glad we chose this one.
We were told about the incredible view
of sunrise that can be had but unfortunately the following morning- heralded a
cloudy day.
Nevertheless, to be perched atop the deck sipping the morning cuppa while watching the world ‘float’ by is a rare
event.
I must've spent more than an hour gazing into the loch sighting a
rare bird. Vendors in shikaras sailed by pressing me to buy their wares.
Lolling and gazing from a balcony with profusely carved wooden
panels lends a fillip to the day.. if given a chance, you mustn't miss...
Mind you, some folks may
dissuade you from a houseboat stay! Our own driver tried doing that, but we ignored
him.
But these floating fairies succeeded in holding us in their sway
and we’re glad that we weren’t swayed by silly but well-meaning folks.
You may
do your research well in advance and book, or take a peek at a few to discern.
You
have a choice between those moored at Dal and those at Nigin Lake. We chose the
second as Nigeen Lake is a quieter lake with fewer tourists and touts.
All
suites come with a sweet concierge, and an ‘in-house’ cook who caters to your choice and appetite.
If we
were disappointed with anything, it was with ourselves, for we made the mistake
of not spending more days on board!
Day 5
GAURIMARG (GULMARG)-VALLEY OF FLOWERS
Earlier known as Gaurimarg, Gulmarg needs no mention, for every
tourist and every tout would want this included in their itinerary. And I’m
sure there’s none who hasn’t sighted Gulmarg, thanks to Bollywood!
It’s said that Gulmarg’s weather can be gauged right at Srinagar!
One look at the horizon yonder and one becomes the weatherman! As the day
dawned, grey clouds had gathered over the hills and we knew luck wasn't with
us.
A straight highway leading to Tangmarg from where we hired
snow-wear took us through winding hairpin bends bordered with Pine, Deodars and
Fir, heralding the next magnificent scene on our itinerary.
‘Gaurimarg’ was the name given by the original shepherd
inhabitants in praise of ‘Gauri’ an incarnation of Goddess Parvati. The place
indeed is steeped in divine beauty.
En
route, the sight of sheep-a gentle reminder of the keepers of the name..
Draped in a velvety emerald green, with spots of fluffy white
fleece; sporting thin streams of silver as ornaments; the mist for veil; a
glistening diamond diadem and with a dash of heady scent, Gulmarg from afar
gave us a ‘come hither’ look!
Soon, as sights of ponies and people began to pop up, our
excitement knew no bounds. There was slush all around, worsened by horse-hooves.
With the cable–car ride scheduled only for the next day, we decided to explore
the meadow on our own. And we commenced with a visit to Maharani Temple which I’m
sure you’d recollect having seen it on the silver screen.
MAHARANI TEMPLE(MOHINESHWAR SHIVALAYA)-GULMARG
I’m
sure none could have missed this temple at least on screen, for it was here
where Rajesh Khanna and Mumtaz tapped their feet and nodded their heads to the
beats of ‘Jai Jai Shiv Shankar’ of ‘Aap ki Kasam’ fame!
Built
by Mohinibai Sisodia who was the wife of Maharaja Hari Singh the former ruler
of Jammu & Kashmir, this temple lies atop a small mound and can never be missed
from any place in Gulmarg!
The view atop the temple precincts
Interestingly,
after the Pandits were driven away from Kashmir, this temple has been looked
after by Gulam Mahmood Shiekh! He took over the job from his father who was the
watchman here and being well-versed in the Gita as well, he has been in charge.
To be able to have a bird’s eye view of this green meadow bounded
by the western Himalayas, was indeed an exhilarating moment! As the rain
trickled through a layer of grey clouds, I didn’t know if my goose bumps
were due to the chill in the air or the result of this breathtaking scenery which
offered a 360 degree unhindered view of the meadow!
We
waded through the slush and clambered atop undulating hillocks, captured the
sight of pretty wildflowers but abandoned the snow for the time being. In
the process, we jumped across raging tarns and fell on our fours on the grubby
turf. But we avoided insistent pony-walas. Remember, ponies are fine when you
want to sight-see. But here in Gulmarg with another day at our disposal, all we
wanted was space to bond.
Post lunch and with a cup of Kashmiri
Kahwa we returned to Apple Tree Resorts where we were booked for the night. A flourishing lawn, badminton court, carom boards and a souvenir shop, made the
resort a pleasant experience.
By sundown, we crept back into our electric blankets and it was only a roaring appetite that made us crawl out looking for supper.
The
sweet scent of Attar roses wafted through every nook and cranny of the lawn.
Day-6
The cable-car (Gondola)ride is divided into two phases-to Kongdoori(10,500 ft)
and, Kongdori to Aparwat(13,450 ft) was the day’s challenge with the
weather painting a gloomy picture. The drizzle was relentless but we went with
the flow.
Excitement was
palpable even as hordes thronged the gates, the weather notwithstanding. Once
we huddled into the cable car, the sudden silence that suffused seemed a
blessing. The silent ride was interrupted with ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’, only to be
again stifled, for the scene that floated below was so stupendous!
Through
the looking glass of our cable car
Booking online shortened our wait. A volunteer's guidance certainly
eased the waiting process. We were swaddled in layers of winter clothing cum a
rubber overcoat, gumboots, cap and gloves but these were no match for the chilly hilly weather.
Kongdori
was our first halt but due to weather turbulence, this halt extended to almost
an hour. It was here that we
heard a guide explain to a newly wedded couple perhaps on its honeymoon…”Sirji,
Kashmir ka weather wife ki mood ki tarha hota hai. Pata nahin kab accha hoga
kab bura!”
Amid
muffled laughter, we stole a glance at the harried husband who was starting
life anew with his bride.
Once
services resumed, we glided to Aparwath too! As soon as the door swung open a
gust of frosty wind flogged at our face and we realized it was snowfall!! 
We dared the blizzard & were game for skating. To everyone’s amusement my
umbrella came to my rescue. As the skates were yanked and shoved on
sheets of powdery snow, our teeth chattered and hands shivered. I salute the
helpers who did their job bracing this blizzard without much ado.
Despite
the whiteout, the guy was ready to click our snaps but I politely declined his suggestion. Balancing the ropes, stopping his gum-booted feet from sinking
into the snow and clicking a snap wasn’t going to be easy and for heaven’s
sake, I had to muster sympathy and be contented.
We
called it a day and returned to Srinagar that evening.
Day-7
YUSMARG
Yusmarg- a name eclipsed by the renowned Gulmarg, Sonamarg and
Pahalgam found its place in our itinerary because we preferred to chart our own
course. Believe me, it’s a sin if you miss this place!
Yusmarg according to some legend owes its name to Jesus Christ!
Yes, it’s believed that Jesus had spent a few of his years here.
Yusmarg’s proximity to Srinagar (about 46kms), makes it a day
trip. Our driver drove us off the beaten track so that we could chance upon
picturesque landscapes filled with rare blossoms.
Onion Saplings
A quieter place compared to its famous cousins Gulmarg and
Sonamarg, Yusmarg, provided us with the tranquility that we so longed.
We
chose just 3 ponies and were once again left to ourselves.
Cloaked
in verdure, the rolling meadow seemed like a sea of green with an all-pervading
stillness that was pierced only with the sound of a babbling beck.
Beck
and Colt
A
hill-station should spell of peace and quietude and Yusmarg had us wound in its
spell!
Except
for the chirruping of a bird or two and the tick-tack of horse-hoof, the
silence was all that we had for company! And in
this silence came alive the indomitable loftiness of Deodars and Firs that rose
to touch the cerulean sky that stretched, speckled with silvery clouds..
The
ponies nimbly crossed gorges and rivulets, carrying us across glens and mounds, deftly dodging thorny shrubs and soaring firs.
The
sound of a burbling brook permeated the silence as we slid into a slideshow
presented by Nature..
With
Deodars and Firs as cheerleaders and intercepted by boulders along its course,
the mighty Doodganda frolicked forward fearlessly and unabashedly, dispensing a
lesson or two in surging ahead despite stumbling setbacks..
A ray
of sunshine on a cold breezy day has the power to stroke your soul. And your
heart with gratitude soars in rare bliss!
Literally
chilling on a boulder, with the cold spray of the gushing waters I felt instantly refreshed..it indeed was an invigorating moment! It was just the three of us
and the two ostlers. Time seemed frozen!
This
boulder as the horsemen informed us is sacred to the Sikhs.
With the azure heavens above, the emerald green earth below and with 360 degree 'unobstructed view' of the world, Yusmarg seemed a fertile bowl of unbridled
euphoria!
A Village Garden
Prayers Go Up and Blessings Come Down
Yusmarg’s
has a certain je ne sais quoi that caught on us; perhaps a free-spirited yet
contented feeling that filled us up as we drove back to Srinagar. The only regret is that we never considered spending a
day or two more.
Day-8
Day-8
SONAMARG
Sonamarg-An Unrestrained Terrain of Tarn, Turf and Tor..
The Sind River signals the trail to Sonamarg
Stretches
of the sinuous Sind allows you to dabble in white-water rafting, which most
tourists would await, mainly to stretch their limbs after a long drive.
It was a remarkable day with a crisp cold gust caressing me and the sun’s warm rays
serving as a salve as I stood under this pine-cone laden tree.
The
Sind follows you till a point where it takes a different shade, stiffening into
powdery snow, signalling the start of Sonamarg.
With
emerald turfs, dazzling diamonds on its gushing tarns, sapphires on its
young tor giving way to silvery snow, Sonamarg is truly a treasure-trove of
nature’s bounties!
We
checked into our hotel which offered a view of the snow-swathed pinnacle.
Tajiwas
Glacier is the most prominent point and no trip here is complete without skiing
to Tajiwas.
The
spot where the ‘Satte Pe Satta’ barn once stood
En
route, our jeep driver determined to showcase Sonamarg as a Bollywood haunt,
showed us some fantastic points which included the spot where the famed ‘Satte
Pe Satta’ barn once stood! It was wiped off it seems, when an avalanche in recent years
razed it.
The highlight
of this visit was Salman Khan’s shooting for ‘Bajrangi Bhaijan’! Isn’t it said,
‘News spreads like wild fire’? This is no different even in a remote
hill-station, for even before we started off for Sonamarg, news of Salman’s
impending visit was the talk in Srinagar!
The shooting
spree that tourists captured through their binoculars
Even as we
trudged uphill, numerous skiing assistants cornered us, shoving their skiing
equipment under our nose.
Once seated onto the skates, it’s hauled uphill along the slope
and then released. For the faint-hearted, a helper would be ready to tow you
downhill. This time, Salman’s
presence was the skiing folk’s bait!
Tajiwas Glacier
The onward
journey is for the intrepid traveller.
Unfortunately, his paranoid bodyguards threatened to confiscate
cameras and cell phones, if anyone tried capturing the 'larger than life'
portrait of their onscreen hero. After we waited with bated breath, the hero emerged, with
tomato sauce smeared on his temples, an indication that he had fought a
reel battle.
As the sun set over Sonamarg, the meadow was bathed in a golden
glow and it seemed as if the mountains- a mute witness to this grand spectacle
could not hide a blush!
The view from our room
Day 9
The sun rose heralding a new day, albeit with its feebleness
apparent on this cloudy day. The crisp mountain chill sent a few shivers
running down our spine.
A Nearby Garden
The Sind River-Blowing Hot & Cold, At the Same Time! What a
quirk of Nature!
Slowly
the white magic began to fade and it seemed as if one part of the range turned
‘green-eyed’ sighting the swarm of tourists that its fair counterpart commanded!
We
drove away bidding Sonamarg an adieu.
The woods are dark and deep, but we had promises to keep…
The Hills-Laden
with Coniferous Trees
A
Kashmiri Handloom & Handicraft Outlet with Hordes of Beautiful Booties.
A Pashmina Saree found its way into my suitcase.
A Pashmina Saree found its way into my suitcase.
Cheery Cherry Trees Along the Way
MATA KHEER BHAVANI
TEMPLE
En route to Kargil, at Tullumulla in Ganderbal district, lies this
century old temple, also known by locals as Tullmull Temple. Dedicated to
Goddess Bhawani, she is propitiated here with an offering of sweet rice pudding and
hence the name Kheer(rice pudding) Bhawani came to stay.
Strewn within the premises, are
several alpine blossoms in countless hues!
Cotton trees lining the precincts showered upon us white fluffy
plumes which at first we mistook to be snow!
From pink to violet to lavender, mauve, purple, magenta and red,
the garden resembled a 'Masterpiece Spray-Art' done by the Master Himself!
Bestowed with vivid colours and sprightly shapes, and with a dash
of heady scent, they’re undoubtedly the most enlivening of nature’s creations.
The Garden-Abloom with Colours Sprinkled from His Brilliant Palette!
The
divinity pervading the temple precincts was further accentuated by the
presence of these divine creations.
Mata Kheer
Bhawani Temple has an interesting occurrence too. It’s believed that the waters
in the temple tank changes colours, where a blackish tint portends calamity!
Shops selling
Kashmiri wares do merit a visit
It was
a ‘flowery’ day, for, en route to Srinagar, we captured more such pretty
flowers and tendrils adorning the many row houses.
The Lovely
Anarkali
The Anarkali or Pomegranate blossoms in resplendent orange are a
delight to behold. Their slender cup like shape give a certain grace that’s
delicate yet ostentatious.
These pretty little white flowers have the power to bring a smile
upon your face, each time they’re eyed at.
Wild Roses
NIGIN LAKE & GARDENS
It was our last day in Srinagar because Pahalgam beckoned. So we
spent the evening at Nigin Lake, which is close to Hospitality Home. Believe
me, the wondrous evening walk along the Nigin Gardens situated on the shores of the
lake, was a magical moment which would be etched in our memory for years to
come.
Nigin
Gardens
Most
tourists inadvertently give Nigin Lake a miss, opting for the Dal instead. But
equally charismatic is Nigin Lake and also the gardens on its shores.
The lush lawns dappled with tiny blossoms in glorious hues, the
Chinar Trees strewn about; wrought iron benches and delicate lanterns that come
to life at the behest of dusk, lend an enchantment to this place. A quiet
evening spent here will be memorable!
Sitting under this Chinar Tree, gazing at the snow-capped crest
yonder, with the grass for carpet and inhaling the greenness of the
dew-drenched sward, we relished every moment of our transcendence!
The sun
swathed summit-a view from the balcony of Hospitality Home
Late evening saw us visit a ‘Papier Mache’ manufacturing centre,
which our host’s friend has set up. A part of the house has been segregated for
making these attractive merchandise and hence the wares are sold at wholesale rates.
It was hard choosing what to bring back home!
A 75 year old sandook(box) made by
the artisan’s grandfather
Day 10
We bid adieu to Srinagar which was home to us
for 9 days! Hospitality Home and its hosts seemed like family but we had
promises to keep with Pahalgam.
MARTHAND TEMPLE
En route to Pahalgam we stopped at Marthand Temple which is a Sun
Temple. Interestingly, even Muslims are known to pay obeisance here!
Mattan is derived from the word 'Maccha' which means fish and Bhawan
meaning 'dwelling' and the temple ponds abound with a plethora of fish which are fed
by devotees frequenting the temple.
PAHALGAM
Across countrified pastures and a surging river with the mighty
Himalayas at the backdrop, lies a quaint little town whose charm and bucolic
life are sure to steal your heart and caress your soul.
Pahalgam derived from the words ‘Pahal’ meaning 'shepherds' and
‘gao’ for village, is still a small town whose inhabitants were and are
shepherds.
Like
village children who sprint along a tourist vehicle upon spotting it, the River Lidder frolicked along with our vehicle, with its waters spouting in
leaps and bounds, as though welcoming us to Pahalgam, assuming the role of a guide!
The weather was surely pleasant with the sun shining through silver clouds upon the cool mountain gale & we could not stay put in the hotel. A plateful of Kaanda bhajia polished off with steaming tea got us ready to explore Pahalgam.
The weather was surely pleasant with the sun shining through silver clouds upon the cool mountain gale & we could not stay put in the hotel. A plateful of Kaanda bhajia polished off with steaming tea got us ready to explore Pahalgam.
Pahalgam is a town full of ‘palaces’, you’d soon realize as the
hoardings raise their head. Bombay Palace, Pahalgam Palace, Moon Palace, Silver
Palace are some, to name a few.
Pahalgam’s
charm is distinct with the pebbles that line the Lidder.
If tall titanic mountains stood majestic encrusted in snow, then
right below were blue-mountains which proudly held onto lofty Pines and Firs,
rendering a blue-green tint. The glistening white Lidder pranced along the
ravines as the sun-kissed dell stole a glance at the blushing skies!
Aru Valley
Sleepy Hamlets Surrounded by a Drape
of Pines and Firs-Aru Valley
The scene seemed straight out of a Hindi flick of the sixties,
where village belles cavorted about, often chased by their besotted beaus, and
when the earth and heavens conspired to shelter their romance.
BETAB VALLEY-PAHALGAM
With time in our hands, we headed for Betab Valley, but a chilly
drizzle forced us to beat a hasty retreat. We returned the following morning to
drink in the beauty of Betab Valley.
Earlier known as Hagan Valley, the vale got christened as 'Betab', thanks to the Bollywood flick ‘Betab’, that was shot here and the name stuck
on. Even as we were at the gates, we could hear someone croon, ‘Jab Hum Jawan
Honge, Jane Kahan Honge’ and the self-appointed guide briefed us about Amrita
Singh’s and Sunny Deol’s reel rendezvous that was shot here.
This vast stretch has an enigmatic allure that’s so tangible, that
it’s hard to ignore. The pall of 'evening mist' that hung over the place lent an
irresistibly romantic feel.
Day-11
We kick-started the day with a revisit to ‘Betab Valley’.
Pebbled
Shores-The Quintessence of Pahalgam
As you step indoors the mystery only deepens. A pebble-lined
river soon leads to a bridge that in turn opens into a vast stretch of paddock spotted with tiny wildflowers and suddenly you'd come face to face with the
Himalayas in all their splendour!
This image
conjured up lines from the film ‘Sheen’, “Ye Toh Kashmir Hai, Iski Fiza Ka
Kya Kehna”..
A rapturous buoyancy coursed through as I walked bare-feet
on this dew-kissed lawn, inhaling the pure mountain air.
These
crisscrossing bridges across the ford make traversing the meadow an easy task.
A Beautiful
Billabong
The meadow is crisscrossed
with fords and runnels and one would be tempted to tread bare-feet.
While most
tourists vacated the place, we lingered on looking out for undiscovered nuggets
along uncharted pathways.
Pristine Waters of Betab Valley
BAISARAN (MINI SWITZERLAND)-PAHALGAM
If there’s any place you mustn’t miss, it’s this, it’s this, it’s
this, it’s Baisaran! Known as Mini-Switzerland, Baisaran is a beauty spot on
Kashmir’s topography.
You can either trek or take a pony.
Turning left from Pahalgam bus-stand, your pony would take you high up the slopes, going higher, higher and higher, crossing becks and brooks, averting
rising pines and Deodars.
‘Titikitatoo’ Treading Along
Among
the many equestrian adventures we’ve had, we’ve encountered names like 'Badal', 'Bijli', 'Toofan' and 'Rani' as names for horses, but this was the first time we
heard one of the ponies christened as ‘Titikitatoo’! Even today, the name,
‘Titikitatoo’ never fails to evoke a smile.
This fascinating sylvan wilderness suddenly gives way to a grassy
expanse hedged by the mighty Himalayas acting as spectators & the Pines and
Deodars serving as cheerleaders.
A Rapturous Squeal Is Bound to Escape Your Lips!
With the whole meadow to yourself, your first reaction would be to
explore every nook and cranny and perhaps roll over this undulating grassy
sprawling stretch. Little wonder then, that our yesteryear heroes did that
effortlessly.
However, persistent ponywalas and hawkers would relentlessly
pursue you till you give in and buy their wares. Unlike Khajjiar in Himachal
Pradesh which we visited long back, Baisaran is filled with pesky peddlers.
Despite the ample space, it’s impossible to evade them.
This tree was
our momentary resting place from where we sopped up the scene. The noon-day sun was a blessing as we
basked in its warmth, inhaling the icy-cold, salubrious mountain air.
Very reluctantly we tore ourselves away from this ethereal place,
promising to make a revisit very soon.
Note: Baisaran is unmissable but surprisingly, even popular
tour agents side-step this place, given the tortuous passage on the
uplands. So you need to ask to be taken here.
It was in the evening when an acquaintance booked via a popular
travel agency informed us that they were taken to another spot which was flaunted
as Mini-Switzerland!
MAMALESHWAR TEMPLE-PAHALGAM
This
temple may seem quite unobtrusive but once inside you’d feel the divinity and
sanctity that only ancient temples boast of.
It’s
believed that this was the place where Ganesha was asked to guard the place
while his mother bathed. Mamaleshwar is derived from the words ‘Mam Mal’
meaning ‘Don’t go’ or ‘Don’t Enter’.
The
twitter of birds and the warm glow of the evening sun pacifying the nippiness, lent
bliss to the already tranquil ambiance.
Ensconced
amid the woodland and against the snow-cloaked Himalayas, is the 800 year old
Gouri Shankar Temple.
GAURI SHANKAR TEMPLE-PAHALGAM
Legend
has it that Lord Shiva had left his bull here!
A simple
temple, with Spartan surroundings, the towering Shikara seems striking as it stands against
the Himalayas, lending quaintness to the shrine.
Pahalgam
Market
The
evening was spent rambling along Pahalgam Market which has a surfeit of good
shops selling Kashmiri handicrafts, clothes, attar et al.
A mild
drizzle had us cowering into shops and each time the rains abated, we indulged
ourselves with more shopping.
Day-12
The
early morning sun crept over the crags, colouring them with a tint of crimson
and the flowing Lidder mirrored the splendid spectacle as it raced forward on
its course. We too had to follow our course; our tryst with Kashmir soon coming
to an end.
Walnut Treats
En route to Srinagar, we caught sight of these woods. The scene seemed steeped in silence and we couldn’t but
help pausing to soak in the stillness.
Instantaneously the song I could reconnect was-
Dil Kahe Ruk Ja Re Ruk Ja, Ruk Ja
Yahin Pe Kahin;
Jo Baat Is Jagah Par Hai,
Kahin Pe Nahin
The air was filled with
the fragrance of freshness as the sunlight filtered through the foliage of
Walnut Trees and mingled with the soft dew-kissed grass.
The only sound that could
be heard was an unsung birdsong of an unseen bird. We remained rooted to the
spot loath to leaving the place, but we had dates to keep...we had a flight scheduled for Jammu.
With a heavy
heart, we bid adieu to Kashmir Valley and headed for Jammu.
Pampore-Saffron
Fields
Kashmir is an 'all-season' destination. Come winter and Kashmir is blanketed in white; in fall she wears a
golden garb and mid-summer madness finds her dressed in all her flamboyant
finery. But if there’s one place that dons itself in a vivid violet, it’s
Pampore or the ‘Saffron Town of Kashmir’.
Close to
Srinagar on the right bank of Jhelum is Pampore. Come October and this green expanse changes to
violet as thousands of violet blooms perform a pirouette to the tune of autumnal breeze. Concealed within these violet blooms is the dazzling saffron! When
used in cosmetics, they’re known to promise fairness!
River Jhelum
It was as if the Himalayas had gathered to bid us farewell as we took off
for Jammu. And we made a silent pact that we’d return soon.
Note: To and fro flights between
Jammu and Srinagar are a blessing in disguise if you want to save time and
energy.
TRIKUTA HILLS-KATRA, JAMMU
It felt as if we landed
from an igloo onto the frying pan in about 45 minutes flat. Mid-summer in Jammu
is indeed madness. An hour’s drive brought us to Katra.
Day-13
This was our second visit
to Vaishnodevi. Even as the Trikuta Hill Ranges began to emerge, the atmosphere
and ambiance outside was palpable. There was a certain lightness in the air and the sunlight seemed less harsh as if
overflowing with abundant blessings.
The town of Katra is
teeming with hotels and you needn’t even book online, the season
notwithstanding. You get the best amenities at a throwaway price.
Despite the harsh heat
outside, the shower spouted ice-cold water and we thirstily soaked in the
coolness. It was just the next night that we began our ascent to the famed
shrine.
An Aerial View of Katra Town from Trikuta Hills
From up above
the world so high, we see glittering diamonds in the night!
7
years ago, we had scaled the Trikuta Hills and the stretch spanned an overnight jaunt and this time too we were determined.
The hill-route bustling with devotees,
vendors and ponies reverberates with sanctity and the echo of ‘Jai Mata Di’ is
music to the ears.
A humbling experience, you’d
all at once feel one with the multitudes swarming the place. Devotees from
different parts of the nation with desires and cares but with implicit faith that their wishes 'would be fulfilled' throng the place and a festive spirit imbued
with piety is what you’d encounter.
It was for this reason
that we chose to trudge uphill instead of resorting to the helicopter. The nip in the
night air is always tangible, given the mountainous locale and May’s weather
just proved right.
We started our ascent at
6:30 p.m. and reached the shrine at 3:30 a.m. and after an hour’s halt queuing up to
deposit cells and cameras, we were allowed entry.
Pindi Darshan lasted a few
seconds only but 'that' glimpse was an 'overwhelming one' as always. One glimpse
and you’d forget all your desires, for, desires are replaced by just gratitude!
A holy communion with the Mother Goddess is all that you’d desire; you’d be willing to relinquish your mortal
garb too!
Bhairav Temple
The nearby Bhairav Temple
merits a visit, more so, for spiritual reasons.
My son and I chose to take
the pony downhill and perhaps that was a wrong move for the 3 hour descent, as ponies
aren’t that deft on concrete steps and my tail-bone is still recovering from the onslaught.
Day-14
AMAR MAHAL PALACE
The following day, saw us visiting the renowned Amar Mahal Palace, built by Raja Amar Singh the erstwhile ruler of
Kashmir. The palace was designed by a French architect, hence this 'castle' like look!
Model of Brihadeeshwara Temple, Tanjavur,
Tamil Nadu
The patio offers a glimpse
of the Tawi River and the Trikuta Hills beyond.
A shop within sells books
authored by the handsome Raja Karan Singh, whose abode is somewhere within the confines.
From
cloud nine, we landed onto Mumbai with a thud!
Day 15
Some Queries Upon Our Arrival
We’re often asked if we traveled with a tour operator.No!
Like all our other holidays, this one too was chalked out by us, for us and consisted this time only of us!
If you'd like to venture alone, then read on..
So, carry costumes to match the season. But heavy woollens will be needed in most places.
A well-fitting canvas shoes
and socks are preferable.
Anoint yourself with
sun-screen always.
Being armed with an
umbrella is a good idea.
Despite being an evergreen
tourist destination with well-fed streams, you’d be dismayed to find toilets
devoid of water and sans latches. I wish JKTDC takes sanitation matters
seriously.
Stock up on calcium supplements. A network of stairways takes you to different tiers of any
garden and there’re scores of gardens all around.
It’s wise to carry your
identity documents even while traversing.
Finally, load your camera
and mobile phones with memory cards.
Astute readers might’ve
noticed there's no mention of Leh and Ladakh in this travelogue. And rightly so,
because it’s wise to to take one step at a time, especially if geographical conditions
are drastically different. Leh and Ladakh are definitely in our bucket-list but
as it requires major acclimatization, this plan is stashed away for the moment.
What
Should Be The Duration Of Your Visit?
Both Jammu and Kashmir still have untouched niches and I’m sure we’d get back to cover those! A standalone holiday in Jammu is certainly on the pipeline.
A
holiday is always ephemeral but if we plan a revisit, it would be here, here ,
here!
PS: My parting words- I beseech you to include our dauntless Jawans in your daily
prayers. May they live long!
It’ll be a pleasure to know that you have visited this
space. So do leave your trail here...
