KHAJURAHO-SENSUOUS
STORIES SET ON STONE
Besotted
by the splashes of marvellous monuments and cenotaphs on sites, and of course
piqued by curiosity to know more about the bees and birds that hover around
Khajuraho, we ultimately added Madhya Pradesh to our bucket list.
January
of 2004 saw us making a week’s hasty trip to this vast terrain, a little after
Chattisgarh and Jharkhand tore themselves apart from their ‘mother land’!
We undertook
an overnight journey by road through Mumbai, and reached Indore by morning 8.
After breakfast, we were raring to go and by afternoon whizzed through to reach
Ujjain’s Mahakaleshwar Temple.
Ujjain
A mere 71 kms brought us to the ancient city of Ujjaini as it was
formerly known. Ujjain’s Mahakelshwar Temple is one of the Jyothirlingas and
the huge temple complex with the temple pond seemed undoubtedly divine. The 4
pm rush was minimal and we had a comfortable 'darshan' without being pushed and
shoved.
A
mere 71 kms brought us to the ancient city of Ujjaini as it was formerly known.
Ujjain’s Mahakelshwar Temple is one of the Jyothirlingas and the huge temple
complex with the temple pond seemed undoubtedly divine. The 4 pm rush was
minimal and we had a comfortable 'darshan' without being pushed and shoved.
If
you love the rustic feel of a sleepy Indian hamlet, Ujjain is the place to go,
it will never disappoint you. A stroll around the village surrounding the
precincts of Mahakaleshwar, gave us rare glimpses of a quintessential village
life in rural India.
Dusty roads leading to 'kaccha' homes with the occasional bleating of goats tied to posts and villagers huddled together for warmth and for whom languor is an idyllic activity– the picture of this village was simply perfect! I couldn't but mull over spending a few days among these uncomplicated people in an unhurried pace!
But the allure of Khajuraho made us beat a hasty retreat, for we had a night train scheduled for Satna, the following morning.
Ujjain’s market place was less touristy and reverberated with divine chants. Souvenirs here, were bells and 'arti' plates in brass; and during our time there, the divine ambience made us determined to glut our altar back home with the burnished statues of deities, and the paraphernalia that lend a divine feel. Palm sized tailor made outfits in bright colored satin with zari (brocades) adorned the shops and we bought a dozen!
Gods
back home at my altar definitely needed a change of attire every week, or so I
thought while buying these vibrant stuff!
After
a 5 hours drive from Satna, we reached Khajuraho. The
condition of the roads notwithstanding, we merrily darted through the roads
that were flanked by cheery yellow mustard blossoms and this scene was what
kept us wonder-eyed on this wondrous journey. And when the roads gave way to
'kaccha' or broken paths, the odor of cow-dung, the fragrance of smoldering
twigs, the sight of ruminating cattle tied to posts and those of women with
heads wrapped in vibrant 'sarees', cheered us along. We were getting closer to
our destination…the pastoral Indian setting does have a charm of its own!
We
drove past the village of Khajuraho in Chttarpur district exactly at 6 pm!!
Wow! And the whole scenario changed in a jiffy! For the bucolic
setting that was a constant even when we blinked, the village was displaying a
different scene! It wasn't exactly modern. But what greeted us were lines of
souvenir shops, lending a touristy feel to the place and, white-skinned
foreigners ambling along clean roads.
Sound
& Light Show
The
highlight of our evening visit was the ‘sound and light show’ in the voice of
THE Amitabh Bacchan! We perched ourselves swathed in
shawls and sweaters, on the green lawns, waiting for the sun to go down.
The atmosphere was mesmeric with the sweet fragrance of dew-drenched grass and
the crispness of cool air.
A
few minutes after sun down, the baritone voice greeted us even as whispers were
hushed to capture the legendary voice. The spotlight fell on various niches on
the cluster of temples as the voice of ‘AB’ trailed onto narrate the chronicle
of the temples.
From
illustrating the story of the Chandela Kings who built the temples, the erotic
themes that found their way into the façade and the grandeur of the Khandariya
Mahadev Temple, the narrative seemed simply electric! It was as if we were
transported back in time….
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As the
voice of ‘Big B’ trailed off and the narration came to a close, the crowd
dispersed unwillingly. Many remained, perhaps to catch a glimpse of the aura of
bygone days….
Early
next morning, we found our way to the famed temples of Khajuarho.
Khandariya
Mahadev
The
sweeping elegance of the Khadariya Mahadev Temple especially from the sides has
to be captured in a single shot to be admired! A
flight of steps leads you into the sanctum, thus lending a soaring look to the
temple’s architecture.
The
name Khandariya is derived from the word ‘Khandara’ or ‘cave’ to mean a crest. You’d
see devotees, or shall we say tourists circumambulating the shrine, more out of
curiosity rather than reverence. Lo and behold! Sculpted on the edifice, are
thousands of lithe figurines in various erotic poses! Running
your gaze over, you’d suddenly sight voluptuous figurines come alive, striking
coquettish poses!
The
famed iconic representation of Khajuraho–a damsel with a shapely figure
applying kohl, is a constant here. Enshrined within, is a
mammoth stone Shivlinga with the Nandi (bull) perched outside.
Once
outside, you’d come face to face with the temple fascia, bearing well-chiseled
sculptures of damsels and nymphs (Apsaras) striking graceful poses. The
titillating Apsaras with their ‘come-hither' look are the teasers at
the start, while the best is yet to come.
Upon
closer scrutiny, you’d find every nook and cranny on the edifice, filled with
ideas of 'poses' that have run amok on some creative, sensual human mind. These
are sure to leave you gasping for more!
Little
wonder why Khajuraho beckons honeymooners– daring
to turn naivete into expertise. The poses perhaps are the expulsion of sensuous
longings unleashed by deft sculptors of yore!
The
profusion of carvings needs to be seen to be believed and beheld…
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Lakshmana Temple
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Built
by the Chandela Ruler Yashovarman, this is dedicated to Vishnu and dates back
to 930-950 CE. Only second to Khadariya Mahadev, this temple’s exclusivity lies
in the beauty of its ‘chariot shaped’ garba-griha (sanctum). An elevated plinth
gives you a reasonable view of the emerald green well-manicured lawns.
As
with any temple in Khajuraho, Lakshmana Temple also has a cornucopia of
erotica, engraved on every available niche on the facade.
On
the ceiling, are more well-chiseled men and women’s busts explicitly engaging
in their ‘sport’. The aesthetic expression of promiscuity is a sure tease!
The
eye-catching sculpture here is that of ‘Shalbhanjika’, who stands striking a
graceful pose with her ample posterior springing from a slender waist. This
fascinating bearing captures the form of a maiden in its entirety and the
posture notwithstanding, her ample bosom finds a mention too-albeit in stone.
VARAHA TEMPLE
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This
western group temple stands tall and proud, supported by 14 pillars crowned
with a pleasantly carved cupola for a shikara. The highlight is the massive monolithic statue of Varaha
(boar). Lavishly carved images of Gods and Demi-Gods and the carvings of
Goddess Saraswati between the mouth and the nose, make this a stunning
masterpiece! It must be remembered that Varaha is one of the incarnations of
Lord Vishnu.
Vishwanatha Temple
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Like
any other Shiva Temple, this one has too has the Nandi(bull). This
structure is embellished with maidens striking a willowy comportment.
On
the western side of the temple, stands the figure of a lissome lass holding a
bunch of luscious looking fruits on one hand, and balancing a parrot on the
other. On one wall, is a woman fondling a baby and on the other, is another
playing the flute. The most striking statue is that of a limber nymph plucking
out a thorn from her foot’s sole.
The
comely look of these damsels is sure to fan the dying embers of a
nonagenarian!
If you thought only sculptors of yore could breathe life into
stone, then you aren't entirely right. True, these figurines are masterpieces,
but outside in souvenir shops, you’d find a plethora of stone curios which are
a replica of the masterpiece adorning the temple edifice. Some of these have
found their way into my home.
Chuansath
Yogine Temple
Named
after the Chausanth(64) Yoginis who are the incarnations of the Goddess, this
famed temple belongs to the western group. Sadly, nothing much seems to be left
now of this temple. But the allure of the temple exteriors is worth a glimpse.
Matangeshwara
Temple
This
Shiva Temple houses a colossal Linga and daily worship is organized every dawn
and dusk.
EASTERN
GROUP
This
is an assortment of Hindu and Jain Temples. Among the Hindu shrines are the
Barhma, Vamana and Javeri and among the Jain shrines are Ghantai, Adinatha and
Parswanatha.
The Javeri Temple displays a stunning Makara Torana.
The Vamana
Temple exhibits a plethora of well-chiseled nymphs aesthetically showcasing
their supple forms.
The Adinatha Temple’s Shikara is the quintessence of North Indian
Temple architecture and the Parswanatha Shrine is the largest.
The effigies seem as though drawing out the feminine form in her different moods! If there’s a spry girl writing a letter, then there’s another– sprightly one, playing with a baby. If there’s a nimble form extracting a thorn from her foot, then another coquettish maiden waits with a garland!
Yet another is a statue of a buxom belle tying anklets.
Chaturbhuj Temple
As
the name goes, the four-armed (chaturbhuj) massively carved image of Vishnu is
enshrined. The most conspicuous figurine here is that of a ‘lion-headed’
sprite. Among other depictions are mundane worldly activities of chariot-drawn
carts, elephants, snakes and even scorpions! Others include the overflowing
boughs of trees and pretty blossoms. This is one temple that is bereft of
any erotica! 
A
‘mithuna’ couple in passionate embrace graces another wall, along with other
erotica that has been brought alive in stone.
What
sets these temples apart?
What sets these temples apart?
What ‘is’ the purpose behind such erotica we know not. There’s nothing parochial or prudish about these depictions; in fact these stone sculptures throb, celebrating life and its vicissitudes. Honestly, visitors to Khajuraho Temples are mainly tourists who’d go with the sole purpose of sating their curiosity. So, petitions and prayers are a far cry here. But, the statues pulsating with life have the potential to bring out the best in humans! These elegant figurines bespeak of grace, style and ardor–the very essence of humans. And I’m sure the differences between man and woman begin to fade out, as energies merge together to create the subtleties of this cosmos…erasing chauvinism and replacing it with oneness!
