There’s nothing
more mysterious than mystery itself, more so when eeriness
dwells with divinity, when magic co-exists with black magic, the ‘unfathomable’
meets with divine grace.
India has always
intrigued the world with her fascinating mysteries, but nothing to beat the mysteries
that abound her Temples! The inscrutability that lurks in the precincts of some
ancient Indian temples is beyond human comprehension and have shocked scientists
and skeptics alike; the faithful and infidels too!
Following are
some of these temple mysteries! Some are renowned temples, while others are Lesser Known Temples of
yore.
At the bottom
lies the ‘Queen’s Curse’, (my husband’s Kuladev Temple) which still echoes with the anguish
of an angry queen whose curse still refuses to be stilled!
So, take a peek into
some of these sanctum sanctorum and have a Darshan of some astounding facts….
1.
THE GODDESS WHO MENSTRUATES!
In Chenganoor village, Kerala, lies a temple cloaked in mystery, for within is the temple dedicated to the Goddess Bhagavathy who gets her monthly periods!
History behind the Mystery
Legend has it that 33 crores of Devas and Asuras had gathered to witness Lord Shiva's marriage ceremony in Mount Kailas, resulting in the balance being tipped at the North.
Alarmed, the Lord instructed Sage Agastya to move to the South. The latter chose Chenganoor as the spot.
So that Agastya would get a glimpse of the sacred ceremony the divine couple moved to Chenganoor but the Goddess got her menses during her stay here.
Even today the statue of the Goddess menstruates, thus confirming the fact Divine Energies do dwell in stones as well!
Centuries ago, after the idol was installed, the temple priest was flummoxed to spot stains in Her clothes. He summoned his wife and other ladies to confirm this.
If still shocked, then let’s hear the story of a Britisher ‘Munro’. During the reign of Travancore kings, Munro was in charge of temple grants. Upon hearing this legend, he laughed and sneered at the Indian preoccupation with superstition, and stopped the temple grant. Soon enough, his wife discovered that her menses did not stop!
When no physician could cure her, someone advised him to resume with the grant. With no other solution in sight, he took an oath that he’d open a trust if his wife was cured. Needless to say, the woman was cured of her malady and the grant was resumed too!
While the periods today occur only once in 2-3 years, the Goddess’s robes with medicinal properties, are known to cure gynecological disorders. Thousands throng to buy these robes that are sold!
The deity is moved into another chamber whose sanctum sanctorum remains shut during the period.
In Chenganoor village, Kerala, lies a temple cloaked in mystery, for within is the temple dedicated to the Goddess Bhagavathy who gets her monthly periods!
History behind the Mystery
Legend has it that 33 crores of Devas and Asuras had gathered to witness Lord Shiva's marriage ceremony in Mount Kailas, resulting in the balance being tipped at the North.
Alarmed, the Lord instructed Sage Agastya to move to the South. The latter chose Chenganoor as the spot.
So that Agastya would get a glimpse of the sacred ceremony the divine couple moved to Chenganoor but the Goddess got her menses during her stay here.
Even today the statue of the Goddess menstruates, thus confirming the fact Divine Energies do dwell in stones as well!
Centuries ago, after the idol was installed, the temple priest was flummoxed to spot stains in Her clothes. He summoned his wife and other ladies to confirm this.
If still shocked, then let’s hear the story of a Britisher ‘Munro’. During the reign of Travancore kings, Munro was in charge of temple grants. Upon hearing this legend, he laughed and sneered at the Indian preoccupation with superstition, and stopped the temple grant. Soon enough, his wife discovered that her menses did not stop!
When no physician could cure her, someone advised him to resume with the grant. With no other solution in sight, he took an oath that he’d open a trust if his wife was cured. Needless to say, the woman was cured of her malady and the grant was resumed too!
While the periods today occur only once in 2-3 years, the Goddess’s robes with medicinal properties, are known to cure gynecological disorders. Thousands throng to buy these robes that are sold!
The deity is moved into another chamber whose sanctum sanctorum remains shut during the period.
History Behind the Mystery
Once the evil King Ravan meditated upon a Jyothirlinga at Baijnath.
Pleased, the Lord conceded to settle down with Ravan in Lanka. The Lord asked to be carried in the Linga form, provided the Linga was not placed anywhere on earth en route to Srilanka!
Upon reaching Baijnath, Ravana had an urge to answer nature’s call. He handed over the scared stone to a shepherd, instructing him not to place it on the ground.
But finding the stone heavy, the shepherd settled it down for a moment, after which the Linga got installed here permanently. Should we think that God has a way of teaching devotees a lesson??
Baijnath rose to fame because of the temple and the villagers owe it to Ravan!
As a mark of gratitude, burning Ravan’s effigy is never a custom here. While Kullu is renowned for Kullu Dusshera, in Baijnath it’s never celebrated!
On the temple precincts is a lawn wherein is a plaque indicating the exact spot where he had meditated.
3. WONDERS AT THE LORD'S WORLD
This 800 year old temple is renowned for the wooden handless idols of Krishna, Subhadra & Balabhadra. Apart from this, there are many more wonders prevailing in the premises.
History behind the Mystery
*The annual Car Festival (Ratha Yatra) attracts scores of visitors every year. The 3 idols are placed in a chariot and taken out in a procession. Every year a new chariot is created and every 12 years new idols are carved out.
*The idols are always carved from wood of a Neem tree that’s found growing at crossroads, with absolutely no untoward marks
on it and with no bird having built its nest on its branches! The tree should also bear a snake hole it
seems.
*The chariot that carries the idol symbolizes the human
body with the horses being human desires and the charioteer being the person
who holds the reins.
*The annual Car Festival (Ratha Yatra) attracts scores of visitors every year. The 3 idols are placed in a chariot and taken out in a procession. Every year a new chariot is created and every 12 years new idols are carved out.
*Once inside you’d be surprised to find the flag on the
Shikra flapping against the wind instead of towards it.
*The Sudarshana Chakra atop the Shikra always faces only you, irrespective of which place you try to face it from. So none
can sight even the sides of the disc!
*While airplanes are designed by humans, birds are designed by Nature. But, no plane or even birds are known to fly above the temple!
*In the temple kitchen, 7 pots are piled on top of each other
when the Prasad is being cooked on firewood. But it’s observed that the dish inside the
pot on top gets cooked first and the one on bottom gets cooked last!
*The quantity of food cooked remains the same and can
feed any number of devotees spanning from a few thousands to a lakh even and
still never gets wasted!
*When you enter through the main gate there’s no sound
of the roaring ocean but when you exist from the same spot, ocean waves are
audible!
I’m determined to make a revisit, now that I know there's more to Puri.
*While airplanes are designed by humans, birds are designed by Nature. But, no plane or even birds are known to fly above the temple!
Nevertheless, we witnessed another wonder on that cold December evening almost 3 decades back. On Puri's busy streets was a cow nursing a pup! Blissfully unmindful of the hustle & bustle, the honking of cycle-rikshaws, was a display of motherliness, and the implicit trust infants show! Isn't it said that God is like an innocent child who comes running even at an evil doer's behest?
4.TESTING THE TUBE AT TITWALA TEMPLE
4.TESTING THE TUBE AT TITWALA TEMPLE
Titwala and Ganpati are synonymous! But, nearby is a nondescript Vitthal Mandir with a remarkable feature.
What no devotee can resist is, lending an ear to the Bhajans (hymns) that are sung in Pandharpur a temple that is more than 100 miles away, in Titwala itself!!
History behind the Mystery
Maratha King Shivaji had built forts atop hills to defend Marathas from the Mughals. During war, what shocked the
Muhgals was that their strategies were always known to
Shivaji even before the Mughals had a chance to execute them. They were also
amazed to see the speed and ease with which the Great Maratha King communicated
with his commanders at every province without budging an inch from where he was!
Thanks to the Transmission Lines set within the
forts through which commanders communicated! The same Transmission Line is what
facilitates this magic too!
Every time I visit Titwala, this fascinating aspect never fails to thrill me. Usually one can find a beeline of devotees waiting to listen to the hymns.
5. THE RAMESHWARAM TEERTHS
It is believed that a person's palm leaf is to be found here only if he/she is destined to visit the temple to discern their future. The palm leaf manuscripts of people irrespective of caste, creed, religion and even nationality, can be found here and the temple still sees a number of foreign tourists, curious to take a peek into the future. 'Nadin' in Tamil means 'on one's own accord'.
Very different from palmistry or horoscopes that are tools used to determine the future, Nadi Astrology depends on only your thumb impression! Accuracy depends upon the diviner who can even indicate your parents' name! Interestingly people flocking this place are more interested in knowing who they were in their past lives than what's in store in the future!
Caveat- Many charlatans who claim to be Nadi Astrologers have permeated cities and are known to dupe gullible customers with fake leaves. Beware!
14. STEPPING STONES TO MUSIC
If pillars can strike a chord, there are steps to music too! 3kms from Kumbakonam (Tamil Nadu), is Darasuram renowned for the 12th century Airavatheshwara Temple, which is included in UNESCO's World Heritage List.
What makes it all the more riveting is the construction of a flight of steps that can make you dance to its tunes.
A flight of three steps leads you to the main sanctum. When tapped these steps give out different musical sounds! All 7 notes of music emanate out of these stones when specific points are tapped.
Unfortunately fearing vandalism, ASI has barricaded this piece de resistance. So next time you visit this place, perhaps you may not be able to strike a chord, or let's hope that with a small token of exchange, entry is permitted.
Built by Chola Kings, this monumental wonder is enlisted as one among the 'Great Living Chola Temples' and another breathtaking scene is the Yamatheerth or pond where according to legend Yama the God of Death is supposed to have bathed and the waters of which have cured him of his skin disease.
15. THE QUEEN'S CURSE
If temples boast of miraculous powers, the Gods and Goddesses within have also bestowed some powers to suffering souls.
Nestled deep in the woods, with pathways paved by footprints and motor tracts, is our family temple in Tirunelvelli (Tamil Nadu)-Sundaraakshi Amman Temple.
Goddess Sundaraakshi being my in-laws' family deity, I made my maiden trip to Tirunelveli a few years ago.
'Tiru' meaning 'fine' or 'bounteous' and 'Veli' meaning 'field', 'Tirunelveli' certainly stands for all that the name signifies. The place wrapped in emerald verdure is indeed a visual treat...
It was indeed ironical that there weren't many houses on the path, despite the carpet of green...
Sundaraakshi where 'Aakshi' means 'eyes' and 'Sundar' means beautiful, Sundaraakshi is the Goddess with beautiful eyes and also Sundar's (Shiva's consort).
However, it was only later that I discovered another significance for the name. Stated on a plaque in Tamil was the story of Queen Sundaraakshi, a king's wife who perhaps resided in the place a few hundred years ago!
The story on the plaque piqued my curiosity and unraveled some truths. On further probing the head priest began his narration by stating that no man who lived in the village surrounding the temple was able to enjoy his first marriage because his wife would eventually die, thereby compelling him to marry again!
Thus began the story and saga of Queen Sundaraaskhi....
Eons ago lived a queen with a devout king for a husband. The wise and just king was revered by his subjects I heard, and the queen lived happily...till destiny changed their course...
"Hell hath no fury like that of a woman scorned"....seemed to echo! Nevertheless, on my second trip, as I entered the sanctum, an unknown benevolence seemed to emanate from the shrine, putting some of my inhibitions to rest....and I continue to invoke Sundaraakshi- the Mother daily....
The queen's curse just brings home the truth that no matter how compassionate and benign the Almighty may be, His compassion seems to pale in comparison to human feelings!
What no devotee can resist is, lending an ear to the Bhajans (hymns) that are sung in Pandharpur a temple that is more than 100 miles away, in Titwala itself!!
Every time I visit Titwala, this fascinating aspect never fails to thrill me. Usually one can find a beeline of devotees waiting to listen to the hymns.
5. THE RAMESHWARAM TEERTHS
It was December of 1996 when we arrived wet and famished at
Rameshwaram, Tamil Nadu.
Separated from mainland India, Rameshwaram on Pamban Island, is just a crow’s flight away from Srilanka. Our train from Madurai snaked through the Pamban Bridge with the ocean on all 4 sides to reach Pamban Island where Ramanathswamy Temple is.
Separated from mainland India, Rameshwaram on Pamban Island, is just a crow’s flight away from Srilanka. Our train from Madurai snaked through the Pamban Bridge with the ocean on all 4 sides to reach Pamban Island where Ramanathswamy Temple is.
At Rameshwaram we had to take a holy dip in 24 of the 64 holy Teerths(Ponds). Our guide informed us that all Indian rivers converged at Rameshwaram and thus the temperature and taste of each
would differ from the other!
Some were wells while others were
tanks; 14 of them were found within the Ramanathswamy Temple.
And of course, the temperature of some were warm despite the ceaseless rains outside, while others were cold! Some had a salty taste, while some were tasteless. Remember, all these waters were exposed to the elements and despite the relentless rain and storm outside, the waters retained their original quality! The warm temperature of some is still inexplicable!
Ramnathaswamy Temple's 1000 pillared complex is another wonder!
The ceiling between each pillar contains lively friezes done up in bright colors. The third corridor is the longest in the world!
History behind the Mystery
While this phenomenon is still a moot point among scientists
and laymen, we can only conclude that Temple Architecture in ancient India followed
certain rules and also adhered to the laws of Nature.
8. TEMPLE OF WISDOM
Koothanoor Saraswati Temple, Kumbakonam, Tamil Nadu a 1000 year old temple is one of the 6 temples dedicated to the
Goddess of Wisdom in India.
11. THESE WOODS ARE DARK & DEEP
Brijbhoomi needs no mention as the place often conjures up images of Raasleela!
Brijbhoomi is also synonymous with the spray of Pichkari, an air of flirtatious mischief and scoops of butter!
When we stepped into Mathura, that's exactly how we felt. The following morning, we ventured out to Vrindavan. The cold December morning chill made us huddle together into a bullock-cart.
The air was redolent of cow-dung and, the jingling of bells accompanied us as the pastoral scene unfolded...
What fun it would be to spend a week at the heart of this nondescript village!
A local guide led us to Nidhivan-a grove which abounds with Tulsi shrubs. Highlighting the significance of Vrindavan, he mentioned, "This is the grove in which Krishna danced with Radha (Radhika) and the Gopis every night.
The Tulsi Grove-Nidivan
Pointing to the shrubs he continued, "Come night and even today these Tulsi plants transform into Gopis and Radha & Krishna and perform the celestial dance! Mind you, no one is allowed to wander here after dusk. Those who've tried watching the coupling, have instantly perished or have become dumb. This is true of even cattle which have strayed here. Every morning the celestial beings assume their normal plant-like forms!"
This intriguing piece of information didn't seem a myth when the guide claimed to know of accursed living beings loitering about the streets of Brijbhoomi, in their demented state.
Can anyone dare testify this?? We stood speechless....
Note: The streets of Mathura are famed for their Pedhas and other sweetmeats. But, nothing to beat brass bells and golden frames framing the romantic razzmatazz between the Gopis and Krishna and also the mischief of Maakhanchor with Yashoda.
Ancient temples often boast of their panel of astrologers. But, tucked away within the Vaitheeshwaran Kovil, Tamil Nadu are ancient palm-leaf manuscripts, some of which may bear your name and destiny!
Nadi Astrology is no new concept, given the number of Nadi experts having infiltrated into metropolitan cities today. However, Vaitheeshwaran Temple is the original place where sages of yore are known to have stashed away a wealth of information about humans who'd be inhabiting the earth thousands of years later!
There are charlatans and there are authentic practitioners, but the ones in the temple are original practitioners whose lineage has been and will be practising this science since the time these leaves originated, that is some 2000 years ago!
And of course, the temperature of some were warm despite the ceaseless rains outside, while others were cold! Some had a salty taste, while some were tasteless. Remember, all these waters were exposed to the elements and despite the relentless rain and storm outside, the waters retained their original quality! The warm temperature of some is still inexplicable!
Ramnathaswamy Temple's 1000 pillared complex is another wonder!
The ceiling between each pillar contains lively friezes done up in bright colors. The third corridor is the longest in the world!
Yet another wonder is the set of pillars known to produce the 7 'SARGAM' notes or 'Do, Re, Me, Fa, So, La Tee'. Of course we tried to test this fascinating aspect!
Remember, Madurai Meenakshi Temple also has a similar feature.
6. THE TEMPLE THAT TSUNAMI SPARED
This shore temple looks like just any other temple in Tamil
Nadu, but here the sanctum sanctorum is actually located below sea level within a
cave! A flight of steps leads you down to the sanctum where the idol of Lord
Kartikeya is worshipped.
When you look out from this point, the sea level is higher! The shoreline is just about 100 meters away from the temple.
When you look out from this point, the sea level is higher! The shoreline is just about 100 meters away from the temple.
Yet, a decade
back when Tsunami struck, water that rose on all 3 sides of the temple receded
the moment it touched the temple precincts! The same waters that had wiped
off the nearby village and bus-stand, receded a kilometer away not touching the
temple!
History behind the Mystery
According to legend, Lord Varuna (Lord of the Rains) had
conspired to hide the evil Soorapadman under the sea, away from the ‘Vel’ (Lord’s
spear). Surapadman was causing havoc and Lord Kartikeya’s birth was to put an
end to Soorapadman. But it was here at Tiruchendur that the Lord had slain
Soorapadman. Hence, from then onwards, Lord Varuna had vowed never to touch Lord Kartikeya’s feet ever!
Villagers did spot a crater on the fateful day, but the water receded
instead of moving forward.
If this seems incredulous, a visit to Tiruchendur will
confirm this fact!
14kms from Kullu, Himachal Pradesh, lies a hamlet whose
refreshing environs is like a breath of fresh air!
For, here atop Mathan Hills is the sacred temple of Bijli Mahadev whose presiding deity is Lord Shiva.
For, here atop Mathan Hills is the sacred temple of Bijli Mahadev whose presiding deity is Lord Shiva.
‘Bijli’
which means ‘lightning’ highlights a rare and wondrous phenomenon which occurs
when lightning strikes, shattering into smithereens the phallic symbol-the Shiv
Ling! This electric event is however not frequent, but does occur. Yet, when it
occurs the Linga is magically joined together by the temple priest, into a
single piece again by using clarified butter (ghee) as adhesive!
The butter (ghee) that’s also found within the temple is what is used by the priest to join the pieces together.
The butter (ghee) that’s also found within the temple is what is used by the priest to join the pieces together.
History behind the mystery
There’s no satisfactory scientific explanation given by
anyone about this rare phenomenon. But once you step into Himachal Pradesh,
you’d instantly feel you’ve stepped into heaven! Topographically, it is an
extension of Kashmir, the Himalayas tapering off at Sikkim & Arunachal Pradesh on the eastern side. But, having
relished all three, I’d say this is where heaven is! Little wonder then that it's truly a magical land!
8. TEMPLE OF WISDOM
The
shops leading to this temple of course sell images of the Goddess and flowers for worship,
especially the Lotus flower. But, notebooks, pens and pencils are sold too! One
can buy and donate these to the many underprivileged children who flock to the
temple.
Pic-Courtesy madura.com
History
Unlike
the aforementioned temples, there’s no magical phenomenon here. But, being one of the few temples dedicated to Goddess Saraswati, thought of sharing with you some of
the temple’s attributes and how the temple came into existence.
Koothanur
earlier known as Amabalpuri is the birth place of
a famed Tamil poet Ottakoothan who was born more than 1000 years back. Ottakoothan
who was born an ordinary man just yearned for one thing. Wealth or other
excesses was not what he wanted. He sought the grace of the Goddess so that he
may be able to compose beautiful poems! Pleased with his devotion and humility,
the Goddess is said to have granted him his wish, after which he began composing
soulful poetry!
Captivated
by his compositions, King Rajarajachola gifted the poet a piece of land at
Ambalpuri. It was not crops that the poet cultivated; nor did he build a
mansion, but with the help of his grandson Ovathakootar, the poet built the
present temple here!
Students
wanting to progress academically, and even disciples of fine arts seek the grace
of this Goddess. Not just flowers but also hall-tickets and papers bearing student’s
name and roll number, find their way to Her sacred feet here!
9. THE LAKE THAT NEVER FREEZES
If some temples are shrouded in mystery, then it can also be found in nature! And that's what we discovered in Sikkim.
Given the tortuous as well as torturous journey, Gurudongmar Lake in Sikkim, is only for the intrepid traveler! A 10 hour journey from Gangtok brought us to Lachen at night.
So
what’s so unique about the place? There’s no temple here, although a Gurudwara
does greet you.9. THE LAKE THAT NEVER FREEZES
If some temples are shrouded in mystery, then it can also be found in nature! And that's what we discovered in Sikkim.
Given the tortuous as well as torturous journey, Gurudongmar Lake in Sikkim, is only for the intrepid traveler! A 10 hour journey from Gangtok brought us to Lachen at night.
Before dawn at 3am we proceeded uphill on jeep only to reach Gurudongmar
Lake at 8am, halting midway for 45 minutes for tea and magi.
Yet, the place does need a mention, for, even in peak winter,
when the entire region is cloaked in a blanket of snow, a portion of the lake
does not freeze!
May of 2012....the lake lay placid with its limpid waters reflecting the silvery clouds of the sky in a cold desert, surrounded by
snow-clad mountains and low levels of oxygen!
Gurudongmar Lake is one of the highest lakes in the world located at an altitude of 17100 ft!
Gurudongmar Lake is one of the highest lakes in the world located at an altitude of 17100 ft!
History behind the Mystery
Legend has it that the lake used to freeze in winter, thereby disabling
humans from using water for their needs.
Once
when Guru Padmasambhava (Guru Dzongmar) was returning from Tibet, the hapless
villagers approached Him for help. The Guru is known to
have cast a glimpse on a portion of the lake which till now remains unfrozen
even in peak winter!
After
having feasted our eyes on verdant rolling mountains and
The vast expanse punctuated by tall
titanic snowy mountains and the lake that stole all the attention just seemed
to humble us!
Low levels of oxygen hushed human sounds, thus placating the din which tourists usually make.
Conversing with the soldiers posted at
base camp perhaps cemented a bond between both, thus enabling a tate-e-tate
with the Universe!
Whizzing
and hurtling past ragged roads and dodging precarious ravines, many times
during the journey I cursed myself for not abandoning this visit...
But that one
hour spent at the spot was indeed rewarding!
I'm sure a visit to Gurudongmar is indeed a 'once in a lifetime' visit!
My sister-in-law who's usually wary of strenuous travel just hugged me exclaiming, "Thanks Shubhs for bringing us here!" I wondered if we were hallucinating thanks to low levels of Oxygen!
My son often teases me, "Will you visit Gurudongmar again?" Thank God, he chose to remain with my parents in Lachen.
It was only my husband, my brother and sister-in-law who took the plunge along with our diligent driver Prashant who brought us to Lachen from Gangtok! God bless Prashant and may his face continue to remain cheerful & smiling!
10. TOWERING TALL & PROUD!
The Priest Performing Daily Libation Atop the Ladder!
If divinity prevails on one corner, then art catches up!
Outside the sanctum sanctorum are other smaller
temples which certainly need a mention for the profuse carvings and intricate
details.
My sister-in-law who's usually wary of strenuous travel just hugged me exclaiming, "Thanks Shubhs for bringing us here!" I wondered if we were hallucinating thanks to low levels of Oxygen!
My son often teases me, "Will you visit Gurudongmar again?" Thank God, he chose to remain with my parents in Lachen.
It was only my husband, my brother and sister-in-law who took the plunge along with our diligent driver Prashant who brought us to Lachen from Gangtok! God bless Prashant and may his face continue to remain cheerful & smiling!
10. TOWERING TALL & PROUD!
Known as Rajarajeshwaram Temple and also as
Peruvudaiyar Kovil, Periya Kovil (Big Temple), Brihadeeshwara Temple is
certainly a pride of Tanjavur in Tamil Nadu whose colossal Gopuram can be seen
from anywhere in Tanjavur!
Brihadeeshwara Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is
a part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Site as ‘Great Living Chola Temples’!
Housed within the Shivganga Fort, this temple
made entirely of granite (approximately 130,000 tons of granite was believed
to be carried by elephants) is a sight to behold!
However, the most wondrous exclamation the
temple deserves is the fact that the Gopuram or the pyramid shaped tower that
spans 215 ft is built in such a way that its shadow never falls on the ground
regardless of the time or season!
15 years ago, when we embarked on a visit to
Tanjvur, we wanted to see this marvel unfold and so went armed with camera et
al to click photographs of the Gopuram.
Unfortunately Tanjavur was experiencing a spell of rains although it was only mid April! I suppose that was due to unbearable rise in temperatures.
Unfortunately Tanjavur was experiencing a spell of rains although it was only mid April! I suppose that was due to unbearable rise in temperatures.
The grey clouds concealed the sun although the showers
had abated that morning and the sweet fragrance of wet earth wafted through the
cool breeze that the showers brought.
As we rambled along the temple precincts, (we
were just a handful-my husband, his aunt, his cousins and I along with my yet-to-be-born
son), I felt quite light…Was it the crisp atmosphere, was it the vast empty
stretch of land that lay ahead of us or was it the absence of cantankerous city
clamor…., I know not.
After the Gupuram has held its sway, the next
thing that greets you and arrests your sight is the Shivling enshrined inside.
This mammoth Shivling measuring 8.7 meters I'm sure would leave anyone
awestruck!!
The Priest Performing Daily Libation Atop the Ladder!
If divinity prevails on one corner, then art catches up!
11. THESE WOODS ARE DARK & DEEP
Brijbhoomi needs no mention as the place often conjures up images of Raasleela!
Brijbhoomi is also synonymous with the spray of Pichkari, an air of flirtatious mischief and scoops of butter!
When we stepped into Mathura, that's exactly how we felt. The following morning, we ventured out to Vrindavan. The cold December morning chill made us huddle together into a bullock-cart.
The air was redolent of cow-dung and, the jingling of bells accompanied us as the pastoral scene unfolded...
What fun it would be to spend a week at the heart of this nondescript village!
Vrinda meaning 'Holy Basil' (Tulsi) and Vann meaning 'grove', Vrindavan is the place where Lord Krishna spent his growing years after being born in Mathura.
Once here, we couldn't help but visualize the romance that must've transpired between Radhika and Krishna.
Once here, we couldn't help but visualize the romance that must've transpired between Radhika and Krishna.
How pleasant it is to think of the rendezvous that might've existed some eons ago between young lovers!
A local guide led us to Nidhivan-a grove which abounds with Tulsi shrubs. Highlighting the significance of Vrindavan, he mentioned, "This is the grove in which Krishna danced with Radha (Radhika) and the Gopis every night.
The Tulsi Grove-Nidivan
Pointing to the shrubs he continued, "Come night and even today these Tulsi plants transform into Gopis and Radha & Krishna and perform the celestial dance! Mind you, no one is allowed to wander here after dusk. Those who've tried watching the coupling, have instantly perished or have become dumb. This is true of even cattle which have strayed here. Every morning the celestial beings assume their normal plant-like forms!"
This intriguing piece of information didn't seem a myth when the guide claimed to know of accursed living beings loitering about the streets of Brijbhoomi, in their demented state.
Can anyone dare testify this?? We stood speechless....
Note: The streets of Mathura are famed for their Pedhas and other sweetmeats. But, nothing to beat brass bells and golden frames framing the romantic razzmatazz between the Gopis and Krishna and also the mischief of Maakhanchor with Yashoda.
There're hundreds of pictures done in papers and all kinds of fabrics like jet black muslin and these are very cheap on the pocket too. Brass statues of the duo are also available along with T-Shirts and Kurtas embodying this legendary romance.
12. PILLARS STRIKING A CHORD
If man has enjoyed crooning, he has also improvised instruments to match his tenor. But to think that he'd breathe life into stone pillars is surely a proof of his ingenuity and adroitness.
'Geet Gaya Patharon Ne' rings a bell when you see for yourself. Strike the pillars at Madurai's Meenakshi Temple (Tamil Nadu)! For inside the complex at the North Tower is the piece de resistance-a set of musical pillars, five in all, each consisting of 22 smaller pillars. Carved from a single mammoth stone, these pillars are indeed music to the ears. When struck, these pillars produce the seven musical notes!
It's not just in Meenakshi Temple (Madurai), but also in temples of (Thirunelveli), Sucheendram Temple (Tamil Nadu), in temples at Hampi (Karnataka) and Lepakshi Temples in Andra Pradesh that you'd find these wonders.
The 7th Century Meenakshi Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu is the single most iconic structure of Madurai. Structural additions were added to the main structure till the 18th century. But the most spell-binding wonder is certainly the musical pillars.
Meenakshi Temple's piece de resistance
13. YOUR FUTURE LIES IN THIS TEMPLE12. PILLARS STRIKING A CHORD
If man has enjoyed crooning, he has also improvised instruments to match his tenor. But to think that he'd breathe life into stone pillars is surely a proof of his ingenuity and adroitness.
'Geet Gaya Patharon Ne' rings a bell when you see for yourself. Strike the pillars at Madurai's Meenakshi Temple (Tamil Nadu)! For inside the complex at the North Tower is the piece de resistance-a set of musical pillars, five in all, each consisting of 22 smaller pillars. Carved from a single mammoth stone, these pillars are indeed music to the ears. When struck, these pillars produce the seven musical notes!
It's not just in Meenakshi Temple (Madurai), but also in temples of (Thirunelveli), Sucheendram Temple (Tamil Nadu), in temples at Hampi (Karnataka) and Lepakshi Temples in Andra Pradesh that you'd find these wonders.
The 7th Century Meenakshi Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu is the single most iconic structure of Madurai. Structural additions were added to the main structure till the 18th century. But the most spell-binding wonder is certainly the musical pillars.
Sculpture is considered to be one of the 64 art
forms and artistic expression is certainly a means of rising above all mundane
matters. Ancient temples are standing testimonies to this sublime grace!
The creation of a temple in ancient times called
for several artists who’d showcase their skills to create a magnificent masterpiece
which exuded beauty, symmetry, peace and bliss to worshippers who set foot to
seek their higher selves.
If colorful friezes mesmerized you with their elegance,
then carvings spoke of arty eloquence. But to think that stones could reverberate
with music is beyond cognitive capacity today.
History Behind the Mystery
According to M.G. Prasad and B.Rajavel, Department
of Mechanical Engineering at Stevens Institute of Technology, USA, there are two
kinds of stone-'Male' and 'Female'.
Sculptors of yore chose stones which emitted a deep resonating
tone when tapped or struck. Those emitting deep ‘gong’ like sounds like a bell
were considered ‘male stones’ and those emanating a feeble sound like when a
brass vessel is struck, were considered ‘female stones’! Of course there were neutral
stones too. The first two kinds were used to make musical pillars.
Note:
Musical Pillars are an exclusive feature of South Indian Temples and these do
merit a visit!
Meenakshi Temple's piece de resistance
Ancient temples often boast of their panel of astrologers. But, tucked away within the Vaitheeshwaran Kovil, Tamil Nadu are ancient palm-leaf manuscripts, some of which may bear your name and destiny!
Nadi Astrology is no new concept, given the number of Nadi experts having infiltrated into metropolitan cities today. However, Vaitheeshwaran Temple is the original place where sages of yore are known to have stashed away a wealth of information about humans who'd be inhabiting the earth thousands of years later!
There are charlatans and there are authentic practitioners, but the ones in the temple are original practitioners whose lineage has been and will be practising this science since the time these leaves originated, that is some 2000 years ago!
It is believed that a person's palm leaf is to be found here only if he/she is destined to visit the temple to discern their future. The palm leaf manuscripts of people irrespective of caste, creed, religion and even nationality, can be found here and the temple still sees a number of foreign tourists, curious to take a peek into the future. 'Nadin' in Tamil means 'on one's own accord'.
Very different from palmistry or horoscopes that are tools used to determine the future, Nadi Astrology depends on only your thumb impression! Accuracy depends upon the diviner who can even indicate your parents' name! Interestingly people flocking this place are more interested in knowing who they were in their past lives than what's in store in the future!
Caveat- Many charlatans who claim to be Nadi Astrologers have permeated cities and are known to dupe gullible customers with fake leaves. Beware!
14. STEPPING STONES TO MUSIC
If pillars can strike a chord, there are steps to music too! 3kms from Kumbakonam (Tamil Nadu), is Darasuram renowned for the 12th century Airavatheshwara Temple, which is included in UNESCO's World Heritage List.
What makes it all the more riveting is the construction of a flight of steps that can make you dance to its tunes.
Built by Chola Kings, this monumental wonder is enlisted as one among the 'Great Living Chola Temples' and another breathtaking scene is the Yamatheerth or pond where according to legend Yama the God of Death is supposed to have bathed and the waters of which have cured him of his skin disease.
15. THE QUEEN'S CURSE
If temples boast of miraculous powers, the Gods and Goddesses within have also bestowed some powers to suffering souls.
Nestled deep in the woods, with pathways paved by footprints and motor tracts, is our family temple in Tirunelvelli (Tamil Nadu)-Sundaraakshi Amman Temple.
Goddess Sundaraakshi being my in-laws' family deity, I made my maiden trip to Tirunelveli a few years ago.
'Tiru' meaning 'fine' or 'bounteous' and 'Veli' meaning 'field', 'Tirunelveli' certainly stands for all that the name signifies. The place wrapped in emerald verdure is indeed a visual treat...
It was indeed ironical that there weren't many houses on the path, despite the carpet of green...
Sundaraakshi where 'Aakshi' means 'eyes' and 'Sundar' means beautiful, Sundaraakshi is the Goddess with beautiful eyes and also Sundar's (Shiva's consort).
However, it was only later that I discovered another significance for the name. Stated on a plaque in Tamil was the story of Queen Sundaraakshi, a king's wife who perhaps resided in the place a few hundred years ago!
The story on the plaque piqued my curiosity and unraveled some truths. On further probing the head priest began his narration by stating that no man who lived in the village surrounding the temple was able to enjoy his first marriage because his wife would eventually die, thereby compelling him to marry again!
Eons ago lived a queen with a devout king for a husband. The wise and just king was revered by his subjects I heard, and the queen lived happily...till destiny changed their course...
Having fallen for the charms of another woman, the King brought home a common woman as his second queen. Though perturbed, the first queen resigned to her fate as was the norm those days.
But when the king decided to crown the son begotten by his second wife, Queen Sundaraakshi was appalled, for, more suitable was her own son. When her pleadings fell on deaf ears, she appealed to the ministers and the villagers, who maintained a tight-lip fearing the king's wrath.
It was his elder son's thread ceremony when the king announced his decision. On the fateful day, Queen Sundaraakshi took a dip in the nearby pond. Completely drenched, she entered the temple in deep turmoil. Composing a song in the name of the Goddess she cursed the entire townsmen that they would lose their wives and never be happy even after remarrying! She collapsed onto the floor and breathed her last! At that instant, her step-son too is supposed to have collapsed after being struck by lightning!
Sounds clearly melodramatic and filmy but it indeed is a true story.
Sounds clearly melodramatic and filmy but it indeed is a true story.
"And to this day", the priest continued, "No man has led a peaceful conjugal life Amma; all men become widowers soon and even if they marry, nobody is blessed with a progeny! This village is accursed and families that resided within 3 kilometers of this temple have all fled to other villages."
As the priest narrated the episode, shivers ran down my spine, don't know why. To quell my curiosity I asked him one question, "Have the ones who migrated been leading happy lives?"
"Yes, Amma" (Amma is the way women are addressed in Tamil). "Only 'this' village is cursed. We've tried exorcising the spirit of the queen but to no avail. The curse remains....
Having stumbled upon this piece of valuable information, we left for Mumbai to narrate the story to other family members..But each time I think of the village, the temple and the priest's narration, I can't but help rerunning the narration in my mind.
Having stumbled upon this piece of valuable information, we left for Mumbai to narrate the story to other family members..But each time I think of the village, the temple and the priest's narration, I can't but help rerunning the narration in my mind.
"Hell hath no fury like that of a woman scorned"....seemed to echo! Nevertheless, on my second trip, as I entered the sanctum, an unknown benevolence seemed to emanate from the shrine, putting some of my inhibitions to rest....and I continue to invoke Sundaraakshi- the Mother daily....
The queen's curse just brings home the truth that no matter how compassionate and benign the Almighty may be, His compassion seems to pale in comparison to human feelings!
There are many more temples which perhaps are lying in the wings of time to be discovered; the veils of which when lifted would reveal more engineering marvels, many more fascinating secrets...and here's hoping that in due course I traverse these tracts and leave a trail here!