BEWITCHING
BALI...
We deliberated, debated
and ultimately decided to choose Bali as our chief holiday destination this year. The
weather rang warning bells loud & clear but Bali seemed to bubble over
spraying its invigorating fizz. And when this bohemian wonder seemed to beckon,
there was no looking back..
Our trip
commenced from Singapore and concluded there with Bali and
Yogyakarta being the highlights.
Yes, I’m going to wax eloquent but no, it is not
an exaggeration for, Bali is really lovely, truly heavenly!
Bali-a tiny fish
shaped island being one among the many Indonesian islands soon unfolded! Different
from sparkling Singapore, Bali unfurled its
captivating colors-sunny yet serene, quaint yet contemporary, cordial yet shy,
nevertheless singular in appeal.
This predominantly Hindu island welcomed us into its fold & it felt as an extension of our own land.
Ganesha idols are
ubiquitous here as are the Buddha statues.
Needless to say, South Bali can never be missed and we began our tour from Kuta- a coastal junction
connecting South Bali to the rest of it.
What yet
again sets Bali apart, are its humble homes that come alive with embellished
engravings and render a palatial look. It's hard to tell apart a home from
its temples.
Every home here sports these decorations made of palm leaves
This twirling spire of Taman Ayun is one outstanding example of Bali’s many architectural wonders. Known as the Meru Tower, this pagoda -like structure adorns most temple tops in Bali.
This leonine depiction as many would know is a constant in most Asian lands.
Statue of a Balinese Dancer
A Sculptor at work
Wading through the array of artisans and their masterpieces, we came
face to face with the main temple. What struck me was the keen dedication and
detachment with which the priests and the craftsmen went about their work, absolutely
unmindful of the stream of tourists.
The sanctum sanctorum is not open to public but is accessible only to natives who
visit for worship. Yet, the pervading tranquility is divine enough!
Beyond the temple is a series of steps progressing to a placid pool
bordered by bamboo groves making it a befitting spot for spiritual reflection!
Bali is popular for its many shore-temples and in South Bali we had the
option of Ulluwatu and Tanah Lot both renowned for their spectacular sunsets.
Close to Taman Ayun was Tanah Lot and hence an afternoon visit to Tanah lot was
the most feasible, although I must suggest that if you’ve more days in Bali,
you must make separate visits to Tanah Lot and Ulluwatu for the gloaming
glimpse. Nonetheless, sundown at Ulluwatu was certainly splendid.
TANAH LOT
Tanah Lot
The silhouette of Tanah Lot against the splendour of the setting sun had caught my attention when I first saw it in a calendar some 20 years ago & the urge to explore Bali only deepened after Elizabeth Gilbert immortalized the place.
TANAH LOT
Tanah Lot
The silhouette of Tanah Lot against the splendour of the setting sun had caught my attention when I first saw it in a calendar some 20 years ago & the urge to explore Bali only deepened after Elizabeth Gilbert immortalized the place.
This shore temple perched on an outcrop mid-sea, is indeed one of the
most iconic images of Bali. Low tide makes for an easy access wherein the perilous path continuing up to the temple makes it easily navigable. However high tides are
what lend the temple its mystical and buoyant appearance.
Unfortunately given the paucity of time, we had to satisfy ourselves
with an afternoon visit. Nevertheless, the perse blue of the seas reflecting the
azure of the noonday skies makes for a pretty picture, and the peculiar land formations
some like a crouching dragon dipping into the deep waters accentuate the score.
Souvenir shops gracing the mazes going up to the temple
Post lunch, we once again whizzed past Kuta to catch a glimpse of the
ebbing orb at Ulluwatu. Our home-stay at Kuta made that option more viable.
Ulluwatu
We reached Ulluwatu at 5:30 p.m.- on time to survey the place before dusk
fell. In fact that’s recommended as one needs to choose the best spot to
capture the fleeing sol.
Where Ulu means ‘top’ and ‘watu’ means a cliff, this shore temple
perched precariously atop a precipice, with the waters of the Indian Ocean touching
its feet, is equally apt for the sunset moment.
The spurt of tourists
grew steadily but there was ample space for all. As the sun suspended itself on
the western horizon, tourists fished out their selfie sticks. One particularly
interesting bunch of South East Asian girls stopped by only to hum a merry tune in perhaps Chinese, which seemed Greek & Latin to most of us. With
utmost respect for visitors, & without breaching the pervading peace, the girls hummed briefly & went their way, while onlookers
smiled a knowing smile!
It wasn’t exactly the picture perfect moment as portrayed in the many pictures,
yet it was indeed a glorious moment for us! The golden glow sprinkled on the abutting
buttes & the pinkish orange that suffused the serene sea were indeed scenes
worth dying for.
As the pall of dusk began to descend, we decided to call it a day.
Roaming around the complex we discovered many interesting facets. Like
talons, these bare boughs of Frangipani clawed their way heavenwards rendering an
arcane ambiance to scattered relics and scattering their heavenly fragrance in
the environs.
Even as the super star fades away, Ulluwatu temple throbs with the
stellar performance of Kecak dancers, dressed in their titivating traditional
costume.
Early next morning, we left Kuta & headed for Ubud where we spent the next 3
nights. Ubud in South-central Bali poses a better junction to explore East,
North and central Bali, while Kuta is a better option for South Bali tours.
Ubud
En route to Ubud, we halted at Celuk, which is famous for its silver, & Mas famed for
its treen work.
Within were artisans
carving and burnishing their silver wares.
Ubud
Before checking in, we decided to make the best of the morning and what better way than to head for Ubud Palace?
Before checking in, we decided to make the best of the morning and what better way than to head for Ubud Palace?
Ubud Palace (Puri Saren Agung)
At the heart of Ubud is its stately palace.
The kori agung (Padurakshas) or the towers atop the temples here
are distinct in flavour from the Pagoda like shikaras of Taman Ayun.
With august gates that
open into pavilions bearing gabbled Chinese roofs that house gilded thrones, profusely
carved sculptures & ancient musical instruments, the Ubud Palace, ensconced
amid sylvan surroundings is truly stunning!
Given its countrified character, it may not be the characteristic palace
but it’s exotic.
We decided against visiting the famed Monkey Forest.
Pura Taman Saraswati Temple
Another ocular delight is the Taman Saraswati Temple that’s very close
to the palace. Although somewhat similar in architecture, the drawcard here is its
lotus pond. Flanking the temple are twin lotus ponds with countless pink
lotuses-symbols of purity and wisdom!
Lotus Land
As with most Balinese temples, this too wasn’t open for worship. That was indeed disappointing but it seems the temple gates would be thrown open to devotees only on festive occasions.
However, the statues and figurines here, which were quite exclusive from the
others, were a source of consolation.
Man made marvels of intricately carved yakshas and nymphs, mythological
birds and demons vie for attention with the blooming flowers, and together they
cast a spiritual spell.
We weren’t really satiated but we had miles to go & therefore packed
as much as our cameras could hold and hearts could contain. And our next halt
at Tirta Empul was equally rewarding.
Tirta Empul
Tirta Empul, which means ‘Holy Water Spring’, has within its precincts a
number of springs known for their curative properties. A ritual lavation here
is believed to heal ailments and purify the spirit.
Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the temple is steeped in mystery and culture.
Legend has it that Lord Indra in order to restore the lives of some of
his men who had perished drinking poisonous water from the spring created by Balinese
ruler King Mayadenawa, had dug up the earth & brought forth a spurt of holy
waters.
This temple unlike the others makes it mandatory for tourists to follow
the pilgrim protocol of donning a sarong before entering the bathing area.
The surrounding sculptures & colossi speak volumes of Balinese architectural styles
& are a photographer’s delight.
Outside the bathing area are a number of shrines ornately adorned in
gold and red and enshrined within are a number of deities of the Hindu pantheon.
Environed by a dense
wooded patch, overseen by a grassy hillock, and an adjoining small pond of
lotus, the temple exudes an otherworldly charm.
Dotting the temple compound are a line of idols of demigods and
yakshas, each distinct in features than the rest.
A nearby fish pond containing koi fish adds to the allure.
Water water everywhere!
There are bathing ponds, lotus ponds, fish ponds & there are millponds
with traditional ‘tedungs’ or Balinese umbrellas floating about; moats with floating
foyers & meres, which serve as mere reflections!
It’s not if you ‘must’ or if you ‘can’ but you certainly ‘will’ be
compelled to allot at least 3 hours to soak in the atmosphere at Tirta Empul and
drench yourself in its revitalizing cool waters. You’d surely emerge rejuvenated,
for, it is undoubtedly a spa of a spiritual sort! Do not forget to take fresh
clothes with you.
The line of shops outside will make you tarry a bit, but you'd never regret that.
Temple Complex
Owing to its location
in the highlands, at an altitude of 900 meters above sea-level, it’s pleasantly cooler
& that afternoon while we were there, it suddenly began to rain. We were a
wee bit lucky as we had finished exploring the place just then.
And a mention of the Balinese populace is a must. Resourceful & industrious,
they know how to make 'way' while the rain reigns! Huddled together inside the
portico, we waited in vain for the rain to abate. Our vehicle was
parked at a distance & Wanai our driver- unreachable. But we didn’t have to
wait long.
Owl-light & there
were hardly any tourists present; perhaps owing to the secluded location. The local Balinese
went about their rituals in a muted manner.
Our last sojourn in Bali covered Eastern Bali.
This moated pavilion with floating lotus, spouting fountains & gliding
kois conveys nothing but elegance!
The Palace Doors
Water abounds- in the pond, under the bridge, spewing
forth fountains, burbling from busts...
The rising mannequins are sure to entice you & once you’ve taken the plunge of posing with them, you’d be stepping on surfacing stones surrounded by skimming Kois & then there’s no looking back, till you reach the finishing line!
As we began to ascend, our focus expanded. The minute trivia started to fade even as the bigger picture began to emerge till what ultimately unravelled was the whole picture! Do we have a lesson here?? It was indeed our ‘wow’ moment.
The setting sun streaked
the sea in a pinkish orange glow & the snow-white surf spumed forth
crashing on the sooty stones.
Bali’s intangible beauty can be contained in cameras but its tangible booty has to be packed in cases. Shopping experience in Bali can be thrilling, given the deluge of handicrafts, souvenirs, curios & Batik.
Most tourist attractions flaunt their display but if you wish to shop at leisure or compare cost, then Ubud Market is your best bet. Bali’s wood work vies for attention with its silverware & art display. Its batik work can be found in masks & sarongs. The most famous objet d’ art being Rama & Sita, you’d most certainly buy one set.
The line of shops outside will make you tarry a bit, but you'd never regret that.
Tegallalang Rice Terraces
Bali's loveliness can be found on earth as well as in the shores. Swathed in
serpentine swards of paddy, the Tegallalang rice terraces snaking their way
around the hills are a sight to behold!
Tegallalang is also famous for its paintings.
Kintamani Volcano (Mount Batur)
Bali is certainly a crowd-puller of sorts. From foamy seas to
stupefying temples; serene spas to emerald green paddy fields, from its
captivating Kecak to its eye-catching curios, Bali is a bagful! If you
can find your nirvana alow, you could find it aloft too. That’s what a visit to
Kintamani promises.
No, we did not trek there, because a trekking trip to Kintamani will entail rising as early as 3 in the morning! However, if you have more time, you should. But, beholding the
mountain in its entirety from afar was more breathtaking!!
The view of the caldera formed at the foothills and Mount Batur encircling
this lake will not allow you to capture the scene on your lens, for you would
want to have it etched in your memory first.
Bali’s bucolic beauty is as alluring as its architectural sensations.
It was impossible to pass by these rows of golden marigold found near this
humble hamlet.
Ulun Danu
A trip to Bali is incomplete without a visit to the most famed &
iconic temple of Bali-Ulun Danu!!
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, (where ‘ulan’ means ‘above’,) is a temple
dedicated to Goddess Devi Danu. The temple afloat the Lake Beratan, is
superlative and mystical in appeal more so with the veil of mist that almost
always drifts about.
Devi Danu, the Goddess of beauty & fertility is worshipped along
with the holy trinity of Brahma-Vishu-Shiva.
Obviously, tourists clicked away every bit of this magnificent temple &
the mob didn’t seem to disperse.
Beratan Lake offers boating facilities but dark clouds had begun to
loom so we preferred staying ashore.
A stark stalk standing afloat
Lying alongside, are the Botanical Gardens. The Canna Indica in its
multi-coloured forms, is a constant here.
Aesthetics is second nature to Balinese culture, which is evident from
the many elegantly designed porticoes where we rushed to seek shelter.
'Awesome' is an understatement, for Ulun Danu’s beauty is ineffable!
Looking back from our vehicle, I wondered if I’d get a chance to make a
revisit..
Besakih Temple or Mother Temple-the most revered temple in Bali was
beyond us that day. It began to pour & Wanai informed that Besakih, owing
to a festival, was open only to locals. So we took a
detour to Batu Karu-a temple frozen in time!
Angseri Hot Springs
En route was Angseri
Hot Springs. The skies spilt forth & we thought the hot springs would be a
comfort but if you ask me, I’d advise you to skip this one. Angseri boasts of
individual springs in separate rooms apart from the main spring that wells up
with water from a cascade known for its medicinal properties.
But, the sight of school boys- boisterous & unrestrained, deterred
us. Rollicking away to glory, they often spat in the pool where they bathed. Of course they were
open to small talk as they were just a handful of innocent preteens but at
12 or 13 could they see reason? So we left.. J
Jatiluwih Rice Terraces
Jatiluwih at the
foothills of Mount Batu Karu is another rice bowl of Bali. No tourist can traverse
this strip without halting to inhale the salubrious country air.
Cloaked in verdure, this paddy patch is bound to bring a
smile on your face, is sure to lift your spirits & usher in an Elysian bliss!
Soon, we reached the portals of Batu Karu Temple.
Located at the foothills of Mount Batukaru, the temple nestles in the
lap of a forest.
Walking into the temple was like entering a time warp. The plaque bearing this writ, spelt of the temple’s ancient austerity.
And we wondered how 'our' land, which is the cradle of Hinduism had so many rabble-rousers wrestling for equal rights!
Prayers & rituals are a way of life in Bali. The typical Balinese
way of worship involves dressing up in appropriate attire of sarong or the like
& supplicating in a unique way-raising the elbows & joining both palms above
the head with both thumbs resting on the corners of closed eyelids.
I heard that orison offered to deities differed in style from those
offered to the dead.
I wonder if this is what inspired Ms. Gilbert to churn out, ‘Eat, Pray, Love'.
Canang Sari -offerings placed in plaited palm-leaf baskets
As dusk descended, we decided to call it a day.
This Garuda statuette & the icon of Parthasarathy or the divine
charioteer are a common sight in Bali & are strategically placed to
redirect traffic.
Kerta Gosa
Bali’s penchant for water perhaps led its hydrophilous rulers to get their act
together & erect its several shore temples. And their ambitious projects
includes some palatine marvels too, among which Kerta Gosa Pavilion or Bale Kampung is a fine example.
Located in the Klungkung province, Kerta Gosa Pavilion was where the
King convened a meeting with his ministers.
Up above, the ceilings bore interesting paintings known as
Wayang or Kamasan work depicting Bhima Swarga- an excerpt from the Mahabharata.
This art form still lives on, thanks to artists like him who sell these
paintings even while juggling their work in progress.
An Engraved Egress
Semarajaya Museum
In the same complex is the royal museum showcasing royal chattels,
reliquaries, regalia, brass ewers & urns, antique musical instruments, brass
figurines & paintings.
Just across the road lies another museum, its unmissable spire already beckoning.
You could spare 5 minutes to scan its modest display.
Seizing one gaze at Bale Kumpung, we moved over to
our next stopover-Tirta Ganga.
Candidasa Beach followed us to our right as we
drove eastward.
Tirta Ganga
A definitely drool-worthy destination, Tirta Ganga
in Eastern Bali is another water palace & most certainly the most romantic of
places.
‘Tirta Ganga’, which translates to ‘Water from the
Ganges’, is verily an ethereal fairyland!
On one side is a pacific pool while on the other,the pond pulsates
with life as fays & fairies emerge out of the pond as if after a dip!
Like the fabled ‘wise goats’ that helped each across
the bridge after an affray, sightseers lent a hand to help & to take snapshots,
as we took one step at a time.
A sweeping view from a knoll above
Bird’s eye view from a restaurant
While travellers revelled holding court below, there
were strange creatures-some harmless & some puckish who seemed to hold their
cabal above.
Fairies & nymphs, gnomes & goblins seemed
to subdue each other ‘cloak and dagger’ in this ‘hole and corner’ sphere.
We left them to their own device because we had Ujung-
the last spot on our agenda.
Ujung (Soekasada) Water Palace
Bali’s proclivity for water has churned out one more ‘Water
Palace’-Ujung Water Palace or ‘Soekosada’-another structural spectacle.
Across this bridge we wandered into a wonderland
that was this 'water palace'.
Overseen by Mount Agung & the Ujung Beach far
afield, Ujung Water Palace adjoined to a graceful garden is a supernal
paradise.
Surprisingly it seemed to be the least visited
place in Bali; even Tirta Ganga had a trickle of visitors but the crowd seemed
to thin out at Ujung. Shall I say we were lucky? Barring a scatter that easily
dispersed, a few yoga enthusiasts & students, the entire palace grounds
were ours, so to speak. We rested awhile on the lawns listening to birdsong before exploring the place.
The scent of Plumeria
(Frangipani) trailed along every promenade. The fallen flowers upon the cobbled path lent a rustic charm & I
couldn’t resist gathering some. I smelt some & left some where they were.
I couldn’t decide if it was the floating palace that
enhanced the beauty of the setting or if the pools created the magic or whether
the gardens glorified the place.
The colonnades connecting the Balai Gili (the Palace)
to a canopy at the other end steal the show. Chiselled with delicate motifs, the
passage allows a commanding view of the lakes & the gardens.
On one side of the palace garden, is a flight of
steps heading uphill to an open pavilion. Rain or shine, you must take the
steps for it is from atop that you will have a panoramic view of the place!
The open pavilion had another pretty garden nearby, and pathways that ran into various vantage points.
Seeking as much as there was to see & soaking
in as much as we could gather, we left Ujung wondering if we'd get to see this place again & when.
I cannot leave Ubud without a reference to our
stay at ‘Kailash Home-Stay’ at Jalan Raya Sutami, Ubud. Remember the street name as they’ve a namesake at Ubud itself. Run by a gracious couple the place was haimish. Their staff were a warm &
friendly lot; attentive & efficient too & their food delicious. Kailash’s pool-facing rooms with spacious
balconies need a special mention.
Bali’s intangible beauty can be contained in cameras but its tangible booty has to be packed in cases. Shopping experience in Bali can be thrilling, given the deluge of handicrafts, souvenirs, curios & Batik.
Most tourist attractions flaunt their display but if you wish to shop at leisure or compare cost, then Ubud Market is your best bet. Bali’s wood work vies for attention with its silverware & art display. Its batik work can be found in masks & sarongs. The most famous objet d’ art being Rama & Sita, you’d most certainly buy one set.
However, haggling is a norm here & even while
you haggle with one retailer 10 others would approach you. So while striking a
bargain, do inspect your wares carefully lest you bring home a ‘Rama-Sita’
pair, with both sporting a moustache.☺
Also make sure what you purchase is bubble-wrapped.
Ubud Art Mart
Mas near Ubud, has shops displaying its marvelous
furniture & colossi. But Ubud Market is where you get tiny treens.
Our hosts at Kailash own a shop with an astounding
collection of furniture, showpieces & centrepieces that are colossal in proportion.
This granny selling baubles willingly posed for me.
Celuk near Ubud has its streets lined with silver shops but its backyards boast of skilled artisans & jewellers who may offer
you good discounts.
In South Bali, every lane in Seminyak is lined
with life-size busts of the Buddha, Ganesha & other mythological deities.
Shop till you drop & when your shoulders begin
to droop, sneak into any of Bali’s numerous spas for a Balinese massage. The ones in Kuta
seemed more conspicuous. But those in Ubud, which were tucked away in the
woods were the ones where one could enjoy some halcyon moments.
The Balinese are an affable lot & most locals
loved to hear about the Ramayana & Mahabharata from us & a staff at
Ubud even expressed his desire to visit Kurukshetra in India!
While initially we had planned 8 days in Bali, we
squeezed Jogjakarta, which shortened our stay in Bali to 5 days. There’s
much more to Bali than what meets the eye & a fortnight here would be ideal
although some spend a month & a Russian whom I met & befriended sent me
a whatsapp message recently saying she’d be extending her stay for a couple of months more!
This lotusland that is Bali had completely bowled
us over & bidding adieu was getting to be difficult. Very reluctantly we
bade farewell to this blessed land,
Watch this space for more on our next stopover.
